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Paula's Choice Earth Sourced Power Berry Serum Versus Paula's Choice Defense Triple Algae Pollution Shield

Paula's Choice Earth Sourced Power Berry Serum Versus Paula's Choice Defense Triple Algae Pollution Shield This calming serum is formulated around Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to calm redness and brighten dull-looking skin. Thi

Paula's Choice Earth Sourced Power Berry Serum Versus Paula's Choice Defense Triple Algae Pollution Shield

This calming serum is formulated around Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to calm redness and brighten dull-looking skin.

This calming treatment is formulated around Glutathione and Chondrus Crispus Extract to calm redness and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Coco-Caprylate

Butylene Glycol

Propanediol

Glyceryl Stearate

Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract

Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract

Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract

Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract

Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract

Sambucus Nigra Fruit Extract

Malpighia Emarginata Fruit Extract

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract

Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract

Rubus Chamaemorus Fruit Extract

Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract

Plinia Cauliflora Fruit Extract

Fragaria Vesca Fruit Extract

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Myrciaria Dubia Fruit Extract

Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Squalane

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Tocopherol

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11

Prunus Domestica Seed Oil

Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract

Brassica Campestris Seed Oil

Xanthan Gum

Mannitol

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Glycerin, Coco-Caprylate, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Glyceryl Stearate, Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Sambucus Nigra Fruit Extract, Malpighia Emarginata Fruit Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract, Rubus Chamaemorus Fruit Extract, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, Plinia Cauliflora Fruit Extract, Fragaria Vesca Fruit Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Myrciaria Dubia Fruit Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Squalane, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tocopherol, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Prunus Domestica Seed Oil, Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Brassica Campestris Seed Oil, Xanthan Gum, Mannitol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Decyl Oleate

Cucumis Sativus Extract

Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi Leaf Extract

Glutathione

Chondrus Crispus Extract

Ubiquinone

Curcumin

Silybum Marianum Fruit Extract

Epigallocatechin Gallate

Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Fucus Vesiculosus Extract

Ficus Carica Fruit Extract

Leontopodium Alpinum Flower Extract

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Linoleic Acid

Linolenic Acid

Phytosphingosine Phosphate

Thermus Thermophillus Ferment

Tocopheryl Acetate

Lecithin

Acacia Senegal Gum

Ectoin

Polyacrylamide

Cetearyl Alcohol

Caprylyl Glycol

C13-14 Isoparaffin

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Polysorbate 80

1,2-Hexanediol

Laureth-7

Dipropylene Glycol

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Decyl Oleate, Cucumis Sativus Extract, Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi Leaf Extract, Propanediol, Glutathione, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Ubiquinone, Curcumin, Silybum Marianum Fruit Extract, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Leontopodium Alpinum Flower Extract, Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Phytosphingosine Phosphate, Thermus Thermophillus Ferment, Tocopherol, Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Acacia Senegal Gum, Ectoin, Glyceryl Stearate, Polyacrylamide, Cetearyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, C13-14 Isoparaffin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Polysorbate 80, 1,2-Hexanediol, Laureth-7, Dipropylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

We don't have a description for Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract yet.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil is the cold-pressed oil from sesame seeds.

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent made up of roughly 82-85% unsaturated fatty acids, mostly linoleic (~41%) and oleic acid (~39%).

This pairing gives it barrier-supporting and moisturizing properties. Linoleic acid, an essential omega-6 fatty acid, can be incorporated into complex skin lipids. Topical application has shown barrier repair, anti-inflammatory, and wound-healing effects in cell and animal studies.

Beyond fatty acids, sesame oil brings something more distinctive to the table:

It contains natural antioxidants sesamol, sesamolin, and gamma-tocopherol. These also give the oil notably high oxidative stability.

One of the oil's key lignans, sesamin, has also demonstrated anti-inflammatory activity in preclinical models.

A 2023 clinical study found that a single application of sesame seed oil to the forearms of 35 healthy women improved stratum corneum hydration (though it didn't outperform raspberry seed oil).

The comedogenic rating of 1-3 depends on the type of sesame oil; unrefined carries a rating of 3 while refined sesame oil drops to a 1.

This ingredient may not be safe for fungal acne as it contains fatty acids that can feed Malassezia.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD) is a stable and oil-soluble form of Vitamin C.

THD is special in that it has the ability to travel deeper into skin than traditional ascorbic acid while maintaining the same skin benefits (double win!).

Because it’s oil-soluble, THD dives deep into your skin’s fatty layers (think ceramides and cholesterol) to fight off the kind of free radicals that mess with your skin barrier. This makes it a great pair with water-based vitamin C (ascorbic acid) that mainly works on the surface.

Even at just 0.1%, THD is already showing great antioxidant activity. When used up to 2%, it helps keep your skin happy and calm, especially when it’s stressed from pollution or sun.

Want to fade dark spots or tackle hyperpigmentation? You’ll want 5% or more. Pairing it with brightening buddies like niacinamide or licorice root gives even better results. One study even used 30% THD with other brighteners and saw real results on stubborn discoloration, even in melasma-prone skin.

A note on THD: It’s has a slightly silky, oily texture and usually shows up colorless or pale yellow (though the exact shade can vary by supplier).

While you can sneak it into water-based formulas, it really shines when paired with silicones or oils, which help your skin soak it up better.

THD is pretty stable, but it’s still vulnerable to degradation like ascorbic acid. Too much light or heat (above 113°F / 45°C) can break it down over time. Go for dark and opaque packaging that keeps it safe and shady!

Read more about other types of Vitamin C:

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract comes from the grape vine. Grape seeds are a byproduct of creating grape juice or wine.

The components of grape seeds have many skin benefits. Research has found it to be antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory. It also contains many potent antioxidants such as Vitamin E , Vitamin C, proanthocyanidins, polyphenols, flavonoids, and anthocyanins. Proanthocyanidin has been shown to help even out skin tone.

Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Antioxidants help stabilize free-radicals by donating extra electrons. Grape seed extract may help reduce the signs of aging.

The antimicrobial properties of grape seed may help treat acne. However, more research is needed to support this claim.

Grape seed has also been found to help absorb UV rays. Grape seed extract should not replace your sunscreen.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Avena Sativa Kernel Extract is is derived from colloidal oatmeal. Besides being a healthy breakfast, oats have many benefits in skincare too.
  4. 04This ingredient helps sooth, hydrate, and protect the skin. The starches in colloidal oatmeal are able to bind water, keeping the skin hydrated.
  5. 05The cellulose and fiber in colloidal oatmeal help reduce inflammation. This can also help the skin feel softer.
  6. 06Colloidal Oatmeal is also an antioxidant. Antioxidants protect our skin from free-radical damage.
  7. 07Oatmeal also contains beneficial compounds:
  8. 08This ingredient is created by mixing grounded oatmeal and a liquid base.
  9. 09Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
  10. 10Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
  11. 11In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
  12. 12While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
  13. 13Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
  14. 14This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
  15. 15This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures…
  16. 16Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
  17. 17Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
  18. 18This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
  19. 19A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
  20. 20Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Source · skinsort.com
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Product index

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Comparison edit

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