Skin science article
Paula's Choice Earth Sourced Power Berry Serum Versus Regimen Lab Vitamin X
Paula's Choice Earth Sourced Power Berry Serum Versus Regimen Lab Vitamin X This calming serum is formulated around Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to calm redness and brighten dull-looking skin. This brightening serum is formulat
Paula's Choice Earth Sourced Power Berry Serum Versus Regimen Lab Vitamin X
This calming serum is formulated around Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to calm redness and brighten dull-looking skin.
This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Tocopherol to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Coco-Caprylate
Butylene Glycol
Propanediol
Glyceryl Stearate
Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract
Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract
Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract
Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract
Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract
Sambucus Nigra Fruit Extract
Malpighia Emarginata Fruit Extract
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract
Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract
Rubus Chamaemorus Fruit Extract
Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract
Plinia Cauliflora Fruit Extract
Fragaria Vesca Fruit Extract
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Myrciaria Dubia Fruit Extract
Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Squalane
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Tocopherol
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11
Prunus Domestica Seed Oil
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Brassica Campestris Seed Oil
Xanthan Gum
Mannitol
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Water, Glycerin, Coco-Caprylate, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Glyceryl Stearate, Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Sambucus Nigra Fruit Extract, Malpighia Emarginata Fruit Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract, Rubus Chamaemorus Fruit Extract, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, Plinia Cauliflora Fruit Extract, Fragaria Vesca Fruit Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Myrciaria Dubia Fruit Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Squalane, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tocopherol, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Prunus Domestica Seed Oil, Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Brassica Campestris Seed Oil, Xanthan Gum, Mannitol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Ascorbic Acid
Propylene Glycol
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Pentylene Glycol
Acetyl Zingerone
Epigallocatechin Gallate
Ferulic Acid
Resveratrol
Genistein
Quercetin
Silybin
Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone
Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol
Lecithin
Sclerotium Gum
Pullulan
Disodium EDTA
Caprylyl Glycol
Citric Acid
Water, Propanediol, Ascorbic Acid, Propylene Glycol, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Pentylene Glycol, Acetyl Zingerone, Glycerin, Tocopherol, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Ferulic Acid, Resveratrol, Genistein, Quercetin, Silybin, Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol, Xanthan Gum, Lecithin, Sclerotium Gum, Pullulan, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Citric Acid
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.