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Skin science article

Paula's Choice Extra Care Non-Greasy Sunscreen SPF 50 Versus CeraVe AM Facial Moisturising Lotion SPF30

Paula's Choice Extra Care Non-Greasy Sunscreen SPF 50 Versus CeraVe AM Facial Moisturising Lotion SPF30 This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50. This barrier-repair day moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Ce

Paula's Choice Extra Care Non-Greasy Sunscreen SPF 50 Versus CeraVe AM Facial Moisturising Lotion SPF30

This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.

This barrier-repair day moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Homosalate 10%

Benzophenone-3 6%

Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%

Octocrylene 2%

Water

Butylene Glycol

PEG-8

Polyethylene

Silica

Dimethicone

Picrasma Excelsa Wood Extract

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Retinyl Palmitate

Tocopherol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Titanium Dioxide

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Bentonite

Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Sodium Polyacrylate

Kaolin

Ethylhexylglycerin

Disodium EDTA

Sodium Hydroxide

Phenoxyethanol

Chlorphenesin

Homosalate 10%, Benzophenone-3 6%, Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%, Octocrylene 2%, Water, Butylene Glycol, PEG-8, Polyethylene, Silica, Dimethicone, Picrasma Excelsa Wood Extract, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Titanium Dioxide, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Bentonite, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Kaolin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin

Menthyl Anthranilate 5%

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 5%

Zinc Oxide 6.3%

Niacinamide

Glycerin

Cetearyl Alcohol

Behentrimonium Methosulfate

BHT

Ceramide NP

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Carbomer

Triethoxycaprylylsilane

Methylparaben

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Cholesterol

Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate

Propylparaben

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Phytosphingosine

Xanthan Gum

Homosalate 10%, Menthyl Anthranilate 5%, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 5%, Octocrylene 2%, Zinc Oxide 6.3%, Water, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Dimethicone, BHT, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Carbomer, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Methylparaben, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Cholesterol, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Disodium EDTA, Propylparaben, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Phytosphingosine, Xanthan Gum

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Homosalate is an oil-soluble organic UVB filter that has been a sunscreen staple for decades. Its job is to absorb UVB rays (~295-315 nm) and protect your skin against sunburn,

This is one of the more photostable organic UV filters; it holds up pretty well under UV and a 2022 quantum-chemistry study found it stays stable in sunlight.

It's actually so reliable that formulators often pair it with shakier ingredients like oxybenzone and avobenzone. Formulators also use it to help dissolve the other UV filters into the oil phase.

One thing to keep in mind: "stable" isn't the same as "strong". On its own, homosalate is actually a pretty weak UV filter so it's better off as a helpful team player that helps boost overall SPF protection.

The safety picture is a bit nuanced but not scary.

This ingredient has a long track record of being gentle and regulators agree it isn't an irritant; EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety found that homosalate is not considered a skin irritant and doesn't raise eye-irritation flags either.

There's talk about homosalate because your skin absorbs a little bit of it into your bloodstream. A 2020 FDA-backed study found homosalate showed up in people's blood levels at the level where the FDA decides to double check.

The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) also found small amounts in blood and breast milk. They estimated that about 5% of what you apply gets absorbed through the skin.

Due to the debate about whether it might mess with hormones, the SCCS recommended a maximum limit of 0.5% in most products of 7.3% in face creams/pump sprays.

One important thing to keep in mind: in the US, Homosalate is currently labeled "non-GRASE" by the FDA. This sounds alarming but really just means the FDA wants more data to confirm it's safe. It's not confidently saying this ingredient is harmful.

As of now, homosalate is still completely legal and widely used while that research gets done.

The current maximum limits are:

Octocrylene is an oil-soluble organic UV filter that mainly absorbs UVB and short wave UVA II light.

Its real superpower is teamwork: octocrylene is remarkably photostable and is most famous for stabilizing avobenzone (the workhorse UVA filter).

This ingredient is commonly used to enhance both UVB and UVA protection due to its unique property in stabilizing avobenzone. It also pulls double duty by boosting water resistance and giving formulas a smooth, spreadable feel.

The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has deemed octocrylene to be safe as a UV-filter at concentrations up to 10% (capped at 9% in propellant sprays). The US also permits it up to 10%.

Two things worth knowing:

You'll usually see this ingredient used in concentrations between 2-10% (higher amounts when used as a stabilizer for avobenzone).

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Paula's Choice The UnscrubIngredients explained

  1. 01Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product.
  2. 02It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water.
  3. 03Expand to read more
  4. 04Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) is drying.
  5. 05One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). Like this, the products can stay more stable over time.
  6. 06Jojoba-derived emollient wax esters (fatty acid + fatty alcohol) that make your skin feel nice and smooth. Chemically speaking, pure jojoba oil is also a wax ester (read our shiny explanation here), however, the ingredients called jojoba esters on t…
  7. 07They have multiple versions with variable fatty acid chain length and the ingredient can have a liquid, a creamy, a soft or firm paste, or even a hard wax consistency. The common thing between all versions is, that unlike most normal triglyceride oi…
  8. 08A super common emollient that makes your skin feel nice and smooth. It comes from coconut oil and glycerin, it’s light-textured, clear, odorless and non-greasy. It’s a nice ingredient that just feels good on the skin, is super well tolerated by ever…
  9. 09A natural moisturizer that’s also in our skin
  10. 10A super common, safe, effective and cheap molecule used for more than 50 years
  11. 11Not only a simple moisturizer but knows much more: keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps to restore barrier
  12. 12Effective from as low as 3% with even more benefits for dry skin at higher concentrations up to 20-40%
  13. 13High-glycerin moisturizers are awesome for treating severely dry skin
  14. 14A mild, water-loving emulsifier that's safe for sensitive skin or eye-care formulations. It helps to create low viscosity oil-in-water emulsions, ideal for milks, serums, and sprayable formulations. It's derived from natural sources and gives a ligh…
  15. 15It’s the most commonly used version of pure vitamin E in cosmetics. You can read all about the pure form here. This one is the so-called esterified version.
  16. 16According to famous dermatologist, Leslie Baumann while tocopheryl acetate is more stable and has a longer shelf life, it’s also more poorly absorbed by the skin and may not have the same awesome photoprotective effects as pure Vit E.
  17. 17A vegetable origin (coconut or palm kernel oil and glucose) cleansing agent with great foaming abilities. It's also mild to the skin and readily biodegradable.
  18. 18A corn sugar derived, water-soluble, pale yellow syrup, that nicely moisturizes the skin. It has a light and smooth skin feel, it is non-tacky, and it can improve the after-feel of the formula. It is also mild and gentle, popular in sensitive skin f…
  19. 19We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
  20. 20A super common, waxy, white, solid stuff that helps water and oil to mix together, gives body to creams and leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth.
Source · incidecoder.com
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Product index

Related product references

Product

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Paula's Choice Omega+ Complex Serum Paula's Choice Omega+ Complex Serum ingredients explained: Glycerin⁠, Linseed Seed Oil⁠, Linoleic Acid⁠, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil⁠, Salvia Hispanica (C…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
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Comparison edit

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