Skin science article
Paula's Choice Extra Care Non-Greasy Sunscreen SPF 50 Versus Skin Aqua Tone Up UV Essence SPF 50+
Paula's Choice Extra Care Non-Greasy Sunscreen SPF 50 Versus Skin Aqua Tone Up UV Essence SPF 50+ This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50. What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side-by-side Homosala
Paula's Choice Extra Care Non-Greasy Sunscreen SPF 50 Versus Skin Aqua Tone Up UV Essence SPF 50+
This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Homosalate 10%
Benzophenone-3 6%
Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%
Octocrylene 2%
Water
Butylene Glycol
PEG-8
Polyethylene
Silica
Dimethicone
Picrasma Excelsa Wood Extract
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Retinyl Palmitate
Tocopherol
Tocopheryl Acetate
Titanium Dioxide
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Bentonite
Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Polyacrylate
Kaolin
Ethylhexylglycerin
Disodium EDTA
Sodium Hydroxide
Phenoxyethanol
Chlorphenesin
Homosalate 10%, Benzophenone-3 6%, Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%, Octocrylene 2%, Water, Butylene Glycol, PEG-8, Polyethylene, Silica, Dimethicone, Picrasma Excelsa Wood Extract, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Titanium Dioxide, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Bentonite, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Kaolin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin
Alcohol
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract
Hydrolyzed Prunus Domestica
Barm Extract
Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Acrylates Copolymer
Polysorbate 60
Triethanolamine
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
PEG-12 Dimethicone
Polystyrene
Polyvinyl Alcohol
Xanthan Gum
Alumina
BHT
Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite
Tin Oxide
CI 73360
CI 42090
Parfum
Water, Alcohol, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Butylene Glycol, Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Titanium Dioxide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract, Hydrolyzed Prunus Domestica, Barm Extract, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Acrylates Copolymer, Polysorbate 60, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Triethanolamine, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Silica, PEG-12 Dimethicone, Polystyrene, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Disodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum, Alumina, BHT, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Tin Oxide, CI 73360, CI 42090, Parfum
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.
As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.
It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.
A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.
Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.
The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.
It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.
In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) is a water-soluble form of Vitamin C. It is the salt of ascorbic acid.
This ingredient is commonly used in skincare because it's more formulation-stable while still offering the same benefits as pure ascorbic acid. Ascorbic acid is notorious for breaking down when exposed to sunlight and oxygen whereas SAP has been shown to be more stable.
Studies show SAP has anti-acne and antioxidant benefits. One study found 5% of SAP lotion to be an effective ingredient for treating acne vulgaris. This is because research shows that SAP may help control acne by reducing acne-causing bacteria and slowing the oxidation of skin oils caused by UV exposure.
In addition to acne, vitamin C is important for skin structure. Lab studies suggest SAP may support collagen production in skin cells, making it a great ingredient in anti-aging routines.
Vitamin C has many benefits: it helps reduce redness, improve skin texture, fade the appearance of dark spots, and brighten the skin.
Read more about other types of Vitamin C:
Titanium Dioxide (TD) is a mineral UV filter widely used in sunscreens and cosmetics.
It's one of only two UV filters officially classified as "mineral" by regulatory agencies (the other being Zinc Oxide).
A really common myth is that mineral filters work by reflecting UV light off your skin like tiny mirrors.
They don't only do that; modern research shows TD protects mostly by absorbing UV radiation, the same way chemical filters do.
When researchers measured this, reflection accounted for only about 4-5% of the protection (and less than SPF 2 on its own). The other ~95% comes from absorption: the UV photons hit the particle and their energy gets soaked up by its semiconductor band gap rather than bouncing off.
So "reflects vs. absorbs" was never really the right way to split mineral from chemical filters.
TD gives broad-spectrum protection that's strongest in the UVB and UVA-2 range and weaker in the UVA-1 range. Its UVA protection isn't quite as strong as Zinc Oxide's which is why you'll often see the two paired together.
Together, they make a solid broad-spectrum system.
TD is a great pick for sensitive, acne-prone, or redness-prone skin because it's non-irritating and chemically inert. Regulatory reviews classify it as a non-sensitizer and mild-to-non-irritant.
It's also unlikely to cause the "eye sting" some chemical filters are known for.
The main trade-off is cosmetic; TD can leave a white cast and has a thicker texture. This is why mineral sunscreens are often less cosmetically elegant than chemical or hybrid formulas (and harder to shade-match on deeper skin tones).
Formulators often use micronized or nano-sized TD to cut down on white case and improve spreadability. Smaller particles scatter less visible light so the formula looks less chalky while still filtering UV.
TD is almost always bundled with coatings like Alumina, Silica, Stearic Acid, or Dimethicone. These coatings do two important jobs:
TD can be used at up to 25% in a finished sunscreen; this is the regulatory ceiling in both the US and the EU.
In practice, the amount in any given product varies a lot depending on the target SPF and whether it's paired with other UV filters.
TD is one of the most heavily vetted sunscreen ingredients out there. It is approved as a UV filter in all major markets worldwide, including the US, EU, UK, Japan, Korea, China, Australia, and Canada.
The safety evidence is solid. There was an old worry that nano particles might absorb through skin into the body but multiple studies (including on damaged, sunburned, and UV-irradiated skin) have shown that TD stays on the surface and the layer of dead skin cells on top of everything else.
There's also no evidence of carcinogenicity, mutagenicity, or reproductive toxicity from dermal exposure of this ingredient.
For those who have seen the headline about a 2022 EU ban on TD, that was on TD as a food additive (a complete separate use from topical sunscreen).
There are ongoing questions about how nano-TD might affect marine ecosystems. As of now, there has been no conclusive evidence that any form of TD (or any other sunscreen filter) harms coral reefs or marine life.
The science is still developing and it's a space worth watching rather than packing over.
However, several destinations have reef-safety sunscreen rules that restrict certain chemical filters and steer visitors toward mineral, non-nano options. If you're traveling somewhere with these rules, a non-nano mineral sunscreen is the safe bet.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!