Skin science article
Paula's Choice Hyaluronic Acid Booster Versus Kiehl's Hydro-Plumping Re-Texturizing Serum Concentrate
Paula's Choice Hyaluronic Acid Booster Versus Kiehl's Hydro-Plumping Re-Texturizing Serum Concentrate This hydrating treatment is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Hyaluronic Acid to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier. This hydrating serum is
Paula's Choice Hyaluronic Acid Booster Versus Kiehl's Hydro-Plumping Re-Texturizing Serum Concentrate
This hydrating treatment is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Hyaluronic Acid to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
This hydrating serum is formulated around Panthenol and Ascorbyl Glucoside to hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hyaluronic Acid
Ceramide NP
Ceramide AP
Ceramide EOP
Phytosphingosine
Yeast Extract
Adenosine
Cholesterol
Panthenol
Silanetriol
Butylene Glycol
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Carbomer
Xanthan Gum
Citric Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Polysorbate 20
Ethylhexylglycerin
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Phytosphingosine, Yeast Extract, Adenosine, Cholesterol, Panthenol, Silanetriol, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Polysorbate 20, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol
Cyclohexasiloxane
Alcohol Denat.
Dimethicone
Zea Mays Germ Oil
Triethanolamine
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Glyceryl Linoleate
Polyperfluoromethylisopropyl Ether
Polyacrylamide
Dimethiconol
Glyceryl Oleate
Cetyl Alcohol
C13-14 Isoparaffin
Parfum
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Methylparaben
Glycine Soja Oil
Caffeine
Tocopherol
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Castanea Sativa Seed Extract
Benzophenone-4
Menthol
Limonene
PEG-100 Stearate
Glyceryl Stearate
Laureth-7
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Butylparaben
Disodium EDTA
Ethylparaben
Glyceryl Linolenate
Propylparaben
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Juice
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract
Citrus Limon Juice
Linalool
Citral
CI 42090
CI 14700
Water, Cyclohexasiloxane, Alcohol Denat., Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Zea Mays Germ Oil, Panthenol, Triethanolamine, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Glyceryl Linoleate, Phenoxyethanol, Polyperfluoromethylisopropyl Ether, Polyacrylamide, Dimethiconol, Glyceryl Oleate, Carbomer, Cetyl Alcohol, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Parfum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Methylparaben, Glycine Soja Oil, Caffeine, Tocopherol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Castanea Sativa Seed Extract, Benzophenone-4, Menthol, Limonene, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Laureth-7, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Butylparaben, Disodium EDTA, Ethylparaben, Glyceryl Linolenate, Propylparaben, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Juice, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Juice, Linalool, Citral, CI 42090, CI 14700
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!