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Skin science article

Paula's Choice Lip & Body Treatment Balm Versus Cetaphil Eczema Restoraderm Flare-Up Relief Cream

Paula's Choice Lip & Body Treatment Balm Versus Cetaphil Eczema Restoraderm Flare-Up Relief Cream This barrier-repair lip moisturizer is formulated around Ricinus Communis Seed Oil and Petrolatum to strengthen the lip barrier and hydrate lips. What's inside Ke

Paula's Choice Lip & Body Treatment Balm Versus Cetaphil Eczema Restoraderm Flare-Up Relief Cream

This barrier-repair lip moisturizer is formulated around Ricinus Communis Seed Oil and Petrolatum to strengthen the lip barrier and hydrate lips.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Ricinus Communis Seed Oil

Petrolatum

Euphorbia Cerifera Wax

Lanolin

C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters

Cera Alba

Ozokerite

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Copernicia Cerifera Wax

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Jojoba Esters

Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil

Bisabolol

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Trihydroxystearin

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Petrolatum, Euphorbia Cerifera Wax, Lanolin, C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters, Cera Alba, Ozokerite, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Jojoba Esters, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil, Bisabolol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Trihydroxystearin, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Colloidal Oatmeal 2%

Water

Glycerin

Cetearyl Alcohol

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Dimethicone

Pentylene Glycol

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Microcrystalline Cellulose

Sodium PCA

Arginine

Sodium Polyacrylate Starch

Caprylyl Glycol

Citric Acid

Sodium Phytate

Cellulose Gum

Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract

Xanthan Gum

Maltodextrin

Ceramide NP

Colloidal Oatmeal 2%, Water, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cetearyl Alcohol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Dimethicone, Pentylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Sodium PCA, Arginine, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Caprylyl Glycol, Citric Acid, Sodium Phytate, Cellulose Gum, Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract, Xanthan Gum, Tocopheryl Acetate, Maltodextrin, Ceramide NP

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

This ingredient shows up on a lot of "pore-clogging" lists but there's no real evidence behind that. It doesn't even have a comedogenic rating from an actual study; the numbers you'll find online come from blogs citing other blogs.

Ratings for other ingredients mostly come from a 1980s rabbit ear test. This test doesn't translate well to human skin or to real products because the ingredient sits at a much lower percentage.

Some people still find it breaks them out. So if that's you, definitely trust your skin. Just know this one's based on experience and not evidence.

Ethylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.

In cosmetics, it plays many roles:

One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.

For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is an ester of palmitic acid, a C16 fatty acid that falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Cyclopentasiloxane
  2. 02Isododecane
  3. 03Dimethicone Crosspolymer
  4. 04Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
  5. 05Cyclohexasiloxane
  6. 06Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
  7. 07Tocopheryl Acetate
  8. 08Retinyl Palmitate
  9. 09Retinol
  10. 10Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
  11. 11Astaxanthin
  12. 12Bisabolol
  13. 13Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
  14. 14Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
  15. 15Salix Alba Bark Extract
  16. 16Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract
  17. 17Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract
  18. 18Calluna Vulgaris Flower Extract
  19. 19Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract
  20. 20Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Paula's Choice Omega Complex Serum

Paula's Choice Omega Complex Serum Paula's Choice Omega Complex Serum ingredients explained: Water⁠, Glycerin⁠, Diheptyl Succinate⁠, Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters⁠, Lins…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side