Skin science article
Paula's Choice Moisture Boost Hydrating Treatment Cream Versus Youth To The People Polypeptide-121 Future Cream with Peptides and Ceramides
Paula's Choice Moisture Boost Hydrating Treatment Cream Versus Youth To The People Polypeptide-121 Future Cream with Peptides and Ceramides This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil and Sodium Hyaluronate to strengthen
Paula's Choice Moisture Boost Hydrating Treatment Cream Versus Youth To The People Polypeptide-121 Future Cream with Peptides and Ceramides
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil and Sodium Hyaluronate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid and Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Ethylhexyl Stearate
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Butylene Glycol
Glycerin
Petrolatum
Cetearyl Alcohol
Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate
Tridecyl Trimellitate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Ceramide NP
Cholesterol
Tocopherol
Squalane
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Dimethicone
Niacinamide
Polysorbate 60
Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Whey Protein
Tridecyl Stearate
Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
Phenyl Trimethicone
Myristyl Myristate
Linoleic Acid
Linolenic Acid
Decarboxy Carnosine Hcl
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Cetearyl Glucoside
Cetyl Alcohol
Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax
Aminomethyl Propanol
Disodium EDTA
Benzoic Acid
Chlorphenesin
Sorbic Acid
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Petrolatum, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ceramide NP, Cholesterol, Tocopherol, Squalane, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Dimethicone, Niacinamide, Polysorbate 60, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Whey Protein, Tridecyl Stearate, Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Phenyl Trimethicone, Myristyl Myristate, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Decarboxy Carnosine Hcl, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Cetearyl Glucoside, Cetyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Aminomethyl Propanol, Disodium EDTA, Benzoic Acid, Chlorphenesin, Sorbic Acid, Phenoxyethanol
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate
Propanediol
Sh-Polypeptide-121
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Panthenol
Proline
Tocopheryl Acetate
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Hydrolyzed Cannabis Sativa Seed Extract
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Hydrolyzed Pea Protein
Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2
Hibiscus Sabdariffa Fruit Extract
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Hydrolyzed Linseed Seed
Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer
Ceramide AP
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Dilinoleic Acid
Benzyl Alcohol
Zingiber Officinale Root Extract
Bisabolol
Caprylyl Glycol
Carbomer
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Dipropylene Glycol
Erythritol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Glucose
1,2-Hexanediol
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Glyceryl Stearate
Phytosphingosine
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Polysorbate 20
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Potassium Sorbate
Glycine
Hydroxyacetophenone
Sodium Benzoate
T-Butyl Alcohol
Citric Acid
Sodium Citrate
Sodium Lactate
Triheptanoin
Xanthan Gum
Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Propanediol, Sh-Polypeptide-121, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Panthenol, Niacinamide, Proline, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Hydrolyzed Cannabis Sativa Seed Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Fruit Extract, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Linseed Seed, Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Ceramide AP, Ceramide NP, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Glycerin, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Dilinoleic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Bisabolol, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Dipropylene Glycol, Erythritol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glucose, 1,2-Hexanediol, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Glyceryl Stearate, Phytosphingosine, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Polysorbate 20, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Glycine, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Benzoate, T-Butyl Alcohol, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Lactate, Triheptanoin, Xanthan Gum
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Cetearyl Glucoside is a sugar-based emulsifier. It is usually made by combining cetearyl alcohol and glucose.
Belonging to the aklyl polyglucoside (APG) family, Cetearyl Glucoside has a sugar "head" that loves water and a fatty "tail" that loves oil. This means it can shuffle oil and water into a stable and smooth emulsion.
Typical use levels are between 1-5% and this ingredient is considered to be non-irritating by the CIR Expert Panel Review.
Once applied, your skin's glucoside hydrolases breaks it down to the parent fatty alcohol and glucose. This is why this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Tridecyl Trimellitate is a synthetic ingredient with emollient and skin conditioning properties. It also acts as a texture enhancer and helps products spread easily without feeling greasy.
As an emollient, it forms a light layer on the skin that keeps moisture in and improves water resistance. This is why you'll often find this ingredient in eye creams and other rich treatments.
This ingredient is seen as the elegant alternative to mineral oil.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!