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Skin science article

Paula's Choice Omega+ Complex Moisturizer Versus Aveeno Positively Radiant Intensive Night Cream

Paula's Choice Omega+ Complex Moisturizer Versus Aveeno Positively Radiant Intensive Night Cream This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Linoleic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This brightenin

Paula's Choice Omega+ Complex Moisturizer Versus Aveeno Positively Radiant Intensive Night Cream

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Linoleic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This brightening night moisturizer is formulated around Glycine Soja Seed Extract and Niacinamide to brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Ceteareth-6 Olivate

Butylene Glycol

C13-15 Alkane

Glycerin

Glyceryl Stearate

Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate

Decyl Oleate

Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil

Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil

Borago Officinalis Seed Oil

Hydrogenated Olive Oil

Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract

Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil

Linoleic Acid

Linolenic Acid

Oleic Acid

Euterpe Oleracea Sterols

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Ceramide NP

Serine

Alanine

Glycine

Proline

Lysine Hcl

Threonine

Arginine

Squalane

Cholesterol

Phytosphingosine

Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract

Lecithin

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Lactate

Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract

Adenosine

Phytic Acid

Glutamic Acid

Betaine

Pullulan

PCA

Sodium PCA

Carbomer

Sodium Polyacrylate Starch

Sclerotium Gum

Xanthan Gum

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ceteareth-6 Olivate, Butylene Glycol, C13-15 Alkane, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Decyl Oleate, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract, Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Oleic Acid, Euterpe Oleracea Sterols, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide NP, Serine, Alanine, Glycine, Proline, Lysine Hcl, Threonine, Arginine, Squalane, Cholesterol, Phytosphingosine, Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract, Lecithin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Lactate, Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract, Adenosine, Phytic Acid, Glutamic Acid, Betaine, Pullulan, PCA, Sodium PCA, Carbomer, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Sclerotium Gum, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Behenyl Alcohol

Glycine Soja Seed Extract

Mangifera Indica Seed Butter

Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters

Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Niacinamide

Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Microcrystalline Cellulose

Caprylyl Glycol

Parfum

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate

Chlorphenesin

Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose

Disodium EDTA

Tocopheryl Acetate

Urea

Cellulose Gum

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Trehalose

Hexylene Glycol

Polyquaternium-51

Triacetin

Titanium Dioxide

Water, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Behenyl Alcohol, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Glyceryl Stearate, Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Niacinamide, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Caprylyl Glycol, Parfum, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Chlorphenesin, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Disodium EDTA, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium PCA, Urea, Ethylhexylglycerin, Cellulose Gum, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Trehalose, Hexylene Glycol, Polyquaternium-51, Triacetin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Titanium Dioxide

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sodium PCA (the salt of PCA) is one of the most well-established humectants in skincare.

Why is it so special? Your skin already makes it naturally; it's a natural component of your skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), or the mix of water-binding compounds inside your skin cells that keeps things soft and hydrated.

As a cosmetic ingredient, it grabs water and holds it in the upper layers of skin to smooth roughness and ease dehydration.

There's some clinical support for the NMF approach with a study showing that a cream built to mimic the skin's NMF significantly boosted hydration.

Safety-wise, this ingredient non-irritating, non-comedogenic, and non-phototoxic in testing, with minimal skin absorption.

It also works really well with other hydrators like glycerin or hyaluronic acid, and typical usage is somewhere between 0.2-4%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
  4. 04Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
  5. 05In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
  6. 06While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
  7. 07Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
  8. 08This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
  9. 09This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures…
  10. 10Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
  11. 11The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure …
  12. 12Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
  13. 13Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  14. 14Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  15. 15Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  16. 16Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  17. 17This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  18. 18Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  19. 19Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
  20. 20Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Paula's Choice The Unscrub

Paula's Choice The Unscrub Paula's Choice The Unscrub ingredients explained: Aqua, Jojoba Esters (Cleansing Beads), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (Skin-Replenishing), Glycerin (Skin Replenis…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

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