Skin science article
Paula's Choice Omega+ Complex Moisturizer Versus La Roche-Posay Lipikar Baume AP+M
Paula's Choice Omega+ Complex Moisturizer Versus La Roche-Posay Lipikar Baume AP+M This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Linoleic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair moisturiz
Paula's Choice Omega+ Complex Moisturizer Versus La Roche-Posay Lipikar Baume AP+M
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Linoleic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Ceteareth-6 Olivate
Butylene Glycol
C13-15 Alkane
Glycerin
Glyceryl Stearate
Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate
Decyl Oleate
Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil
Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil
Hydrogenated Olive Oil
Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract
Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Linoleic Acid
Linolenic Acid
Oleic Acid
Euterpe Oleracea Sterols
Ceramide AP
Ceramide EOP
Ceramide NP
Serine
Alanine
Glycine
Proline
Lysine Hcl
Threonine
Arginine
Squalane
Cholesterol
Phytosphingosine
Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract
Lecithin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Lactate
Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract
Adenosine
Phytic Acid
Glutamic Acid
Betaine
Pullulan
PCA
Sodium PCA
Carbomer
Sodium Polyacrylate Starch
Sclerotium Gum
Xanthan Gum
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Water, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ceteareth-6 Olivate, Butylene Glycol, C13-15 Alkane, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Decyl Oleate, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract, Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Oleic Acid, Euterpe Oleracea Sterols, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide NP, Serine, Alanine, Glycine, Proline, Lysine Hcl, Threonine, Arginine, Squalane, Cholesterol, Phytosphingosine, Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract, Lecithin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Lactate, Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract, Adenosine, Phytic Acid, Glutamic Acid, Betaine, Pullulan, PCA, Sodium PCA, Carbomer, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Sclerotium Gum, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Dimethicone
Niacinamide
Cetearyl Alcohol
Brassica Campestris Seed Oil
Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
PEG-100 Stearate
Propanediol
Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract
PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
Sorbitan Tristearate
Dimethiconol
Sodium Chloride
Mannose
Coco-Betaine
Disodium EDTA
Capryloyl Glycine
Caprylyl Glycol
Vitreoscilla Ferment
Citric Acid
Maltodextrin
Tocopherol
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Water, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Niacinamide, Cetearyl Alcohol, Brassica Campestris Seed Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, PEG-100 Stearate, Propanediol, Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Sorbitan Tristearate, Dimethiconol, Sodium Chloride, Mannose, Coco-Betaine, Disodium EDTA, Capryloyl Glycine, Caprylyl Glycol, Vitreoscilla Ferment, Citric Acid, Maltodextrin, Xanthan Gum, Tocopherol, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.