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Skin science article

Paula's Choice Omega+ Complex Moisturizer Versus Laneige Cica Sleeping Mask

Paula's Choice Omega+ Complex Moisturizer Versus Laneige Cica Sleeping Mask This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Linoleic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair overnight mask i

Paula's Choice Omega+ Complex Moisturizer Versus Laneige Cica Sleeping Mask

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Linoleic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair overnight mask is formulated around Squalane and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Ceteareth-6 Olivate

Butylene Glycol

C13-15 Alkane

Glycerin

Glyceryl Stearate

Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate

Decyl Oleate

Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil

Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil

Borago Officinalis Seed Oil

Hydrogenated Olive Oil

Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract

Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil

Linoleic Acid

Linolenic Acid

Oleic Acid

Euterpe Oleracea Sterols

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Ceramide NP

Serine

Alanine

Glycine

Proline

Lysine Hcl

Threonine

Arginine

Squalane

Cholesterol

Phytosphingosine

Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract

Lecithin

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Lactate

Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract

Adenosine

Phytic Acid

Glutamic Acid

Betaine

Pullulan

PCA

Sodium PCA

Carbomer

Sodium Polyacrylate Starch

Sclerotium Gum

Xanthan Gum

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ceteareth-6 Olivate, Butylene Glycol, C13-15 Alkane, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Decyl Oleate, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract, Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Oleic Acid, Euterpe Oleracea Sterols, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide NP, Serine, Alanine, Glycine, Proline, Lysine Hcl, Threonine, Arginine, Squalane, Cholesterol, Phytosphingosine, Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract, Lecithin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Lactate, Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract, Adenosine, Phytic Acid, Glutamic Acid, Betaine, Pullulan, PCA, Sodium PCA, Carbomer, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Sclerotium Gum, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Cetearyl Alcohol

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

1,2-Hexanediol

Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate

Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides

Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate

Panthenol

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Cetearyl Glucoside

Lactobacillus Ferment

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate

Propanediol

Niacinamide

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Allantoin

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Sodium Metaphosphate

Madecassoside

Ectoin

Dextrin

Theobroma Cacao Extract

Beta-Glucan

Asiaticoside

Madecassic Acid

Asiatic Acid

Tocopherol

Centella Asiatica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein

7-Dehydrocholesterol

Inonotus Obliquus Extract

Water, Glycerin, Squalane, Butylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Panthenol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Cetearyl Glucoside, Lactobacillus Ferment, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Allantoin, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Sodium Metaphosphate, Madecassoside, Ectoin, Dextrin, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Beta-Glucan, Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, Tocopherol, Centella Asiatica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, 7-Dehydrocholesterol, Inonotus Obliquus Extract

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
  4. 04Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
  5. 05Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
  6. 06Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
  7. 07Its main roles are:
  8. 08Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
  9. 09The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
  10. 10This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
  11. 11Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  12. 12Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  13. 13Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  14. 14Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  15. 15This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  16. 16Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  17. 17Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
  18. 18Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
  19. 19And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
  20. 20You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
Source · skinsort.com
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Product index

Related product references

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Comparison edit

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