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Skin science article

Paula's Choice Omega+ Complex Serum Versus Clinique Smart Custom-Repair Serum

Paula's Choice Omega+ Complex Serum Versus Clinique Smart Custom-Repair Serum This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Linoleic Acid and Linolenic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This anti-aging serum is formulated around Ascorbyl G

Paula's Choice Omega+ Complex Serum Versus Clinique Smart Custom-Repair Serum

This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Linoleic Acid and Linolenic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Diheptyl Succinate

Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters

Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil

Linoleic Acid

Linolenic Acid

Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil

Ceramide EOP

Ceramide Eos

Ceramide NP

Ceramide Ns

Caprooyl Sphingosine

Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables

Caprooyl Phytosphingosine

Sodium Hyaluronate

Cholesterol

Ceramide AP

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Unsaponifiables

Tocopherol

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Prunus Domestica Seed Oil

Lauryl Laurate

Glyceryl Behenate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Sodium Phytate

Trehalose

Isohexadecane

Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate

Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer

Xanthan Gum

Cetyl Alcohol

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Agar

Glyceryl Stearate

Ceteareth-25

Cetearyl Alcohol

Behenic Acid

Glyceryl Rosinate

Citric Acid

Benzyl Alcohol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Glycerin, Diheptyl Succinate, Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide Eos, Ceramide NP, Ceramide Ns, Caprooyl Sphingosine, Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables, Caprooyl Phytosphingosine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Cholesterol, Ceramide AP, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Unsaponifiables, Tocopherol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Prunus Domestica Seed Oil, Lauryl Laurate, Glyceryl Behenate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Phytate, Trehalose, Isohexadecane, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Cetyl Alcohol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Agar, Glyceryl Stearate, Ceteareth-25, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behenic Acid, Glyceryl Rosinate, Citric Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Isododecane

Dimethicone

Cyclopentasiloxane

Polysilicone-11

Butylene Glycol

Ascorbyl Glucoside

PEG-10 Dimethicone

PEG-6

Citrus Grandis Peel Extract

Morus Nigra Root Extract

Hordeum Vulgare Extract

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Extract

Gentiana Lutea Root Extract

Algae Extract

Plankton Extract

Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract

Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract

Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Faex Extract

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide

Ergothioneine

Whey Protein

Polysorbate 20

Micrococcus Lysate

Di-C12-18 Alkyl Dimonium Chloride

Salicylic Acid

Propylene Glycol Dicaprate

Helianthus Annuus Seedcake

Caffeine

Glycine Soja Protein

Tocopheryl Acetate

Acetyl Glucosamine

Caprylyl Glycol

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate

Dimethoxytolyl Propylresorcinol

Synthetic Fluorphlogopite

Glycyrrhetinic Acid

Tromethamine

Polysorbate 80

Sodium Rna

Squalane

Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

PEG-8

Lecithin

Hexylene Glycol

Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer

Sodium Hydroxide

Tin Oxide

Disodium EDTA

Phenoxyethanol

CI 19140

CI 14700

CI 77891

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Calcium Chloride

Sea Whip Extract

Water, Isododecane, Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Polysilicone-11, Butylene Glycol, Ascorbyl Glucoside, PEG-10 Dimethicone, PEG-6, Citrus Grandis Peel Extract, Morus Nigra Root Extract, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Extract, Gentiana Lutea Root Extract, Algae Extract, Plankton Extract, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract, Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract, Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract, Glycerin, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Faex Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Ergothioneine, Whey Protein, Polysorbate 20, Micrococcus Lysate, Cholesterol, Di-C12-18 Alkyl Dimonium Chloride, Salicylic Acid, Isohexadecane, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Helianthus Annuus Seedcake, Caffeine, Glycine Soja Protein, Tocopheryl Acetate, Acetyl Glucosamine, Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Dimethoxytolyl Propylresorcinol, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Tromethamine, Polysorbate 80, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Rna, Squalane, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, PEG-8, Lecithin, Hexylene Glycol, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Sodium Hydroxide, Tin Oxide, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, CI 19140, CI 14700, CI 77891, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Calcium Chloride, Sea Whip Extract

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Cholesterol is a lipid that is naturally found in human skin and is one of the three key components of your skin barrier. In skincare, it is an emollient and barrier-repairing ingredient.

It works by fitting directly into the lipid layers of skin to help restore structure and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

This is a great ingredient for dry, compromised, or aging skin; our skin starts to produce less cholesterol with age.

Research shows cholesterol works best in combination with ceramides and fatty acids, the other two major components in your skin barrier.

Cholesterol is also a well-establish penetration enhancer and can help other actives absorb more effectively.

Cosmetic-grade cholesterol is usually derived from lanolin but plant and synthetic options also exist. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about their source of cholesterol.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Isohexadecane is added to enhance texture, emulsify, and to help cleanse. It is an isoparrafin. It is a component of petrolatum.

Due to its large size, Isohexadecane is not absorbed by the skin. Instead, it sits on top and acts as an emollient. Emollients help keep your skin soft and smooth by trapping moisture within.

Isohexadecane is often used in products designed to help oily skin. It is lightweight and non-greasy while helping to moisturize. When mixed with silicones, it gives a product a silky feel.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Dicaprylyl Carbonate comes from carbonic acid and caprylyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol. It is an emollient and gives skin a velvet feel. The sources of Dicaprylyl Carbonate may be synthetic or from animals.
  4. 04As an emollient, Dicaprylyl Carbonate creates a film on the skin. This film traps moisture in, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.
  5. 05Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
  6. 06What it does:
  7. 07Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
  8. 08Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
  9. 09Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
  10. 10This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
  11. 11Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
  12. 12Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  13. 13Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  14. 14Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  15. 15Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  16. 16This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  17. 17Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  18. 18Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
  19. 19Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
  20. 20Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
Source · skinsort.com
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Comparison edit

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