Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Paula's Choice Phytoestrogen Elasticity Renewal Serum Versus Paula's Choice Peptide Booster

Paula's Choice Phytoestrogen Elasticity Renewal Serum Versus Paula's Choice Peptide Booster This anti-aging serum is formulated around Resveratrol to soften the look of wrinkles. This anti-aging treatment is formulated around Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tripept

Paula's Choice Phytoestrogen Elasticity Renewal Serum Versus Paula's Choice Peptide Booster

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Resveratrol to soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging treatment is formulated around Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Cyclodextrin

Glycerin

Coco-Caprylate

Squalane

Saccharide Isomerate

Propanediol

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Glycine Soja Seed Extract

Equol

Resveratrol

Xanthan Gum

Cetyl Alcohol

Tocopherol

Daidzein

Genistein

Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Phospholipids

Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate

Citric Acid

Ethylhexylglycerin

Glycine Soja Oil

Engelhardtia Chrysolepis Leaf Extract

Sodium Phytate

Sodium Citrate

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Cyclodextrin, Glycerin, Coco-Caprylate, Squalane, Saccharide Isomerate, Propanediol, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Equol, Resveratrol, Xanthan Gum, Cetyl Alcohol, Tocopherol, Daidzein, Genistein, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Phospholipids, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Citric Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycine Soja Oil, Engelhardtia Chrysolepis Leaf Extract, Sodium Phytate, Sodium Citrate, Phenoxyethanol

PEG-8 Dimethicone

Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Myristoyl Hexapeptide-16

Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17

Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate

Azelaoyl Bis-Dipeptide-10

Glycoproteins

Adenosine

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Arginine

Valine

Glycine

Alanine

Glutamic Acid

Serine

Threonine

Yeast Extract

Isoleucine

Proline

Histidine

Phenylalanine

PCA

Phytic Acid

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Sodium PCA

Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract

Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract

Ahnfeltiopsis Concinna Extract

Dextran

Hydrolyzed Silk

Lecithin

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate

C12-16 Pareth-9

Trideceth-12

Sodium Lactate

Carbomer

Aspartic Acid

Polysorbate 20

Butylene Glycol

Caprylyl Glycol

PEG-8

C11-15 Pareth-7

Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride

Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

Ectoin

Citrate Buffer

Trimethylsiloxyamodimethicone

Sodium Hydroxide

Water, Glycerin, PEG-8 Dimethicone, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Myristoyl Hexapeptide-16, Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17, Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate, Azelaoyl Bis-Dipeptide-10, Glycoproteins, Phospholipids, Adenosine, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Arginine, Valine, Glycine, Alanine, Glutamic Acid, Serine, Threonine, Yeast Extract, Isoleucine, Proline, Histidine, Phenylalanine, PCA, Phytic Acid, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Sodium PCA, Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Ahnfeltiopsis Concinna Extract, Dextran, Hydrolyzed Silk, Lecithin, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, C12-16 Pareth-9, Trideceth-12, Sodium Lactate, Carbomer, Aspartic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Butylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, PEG-8, C11-15 Pareth-7, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Ectoin, Citrate Buffer, Trimethylsiloxyamodimethicone, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Phospholipids are a family of skin-identical lipids that makeup the structural backbone of every cell membrane in your body.

In cosmetics, they function as skin conditioning agents with emulsifier and surfactant properties. They're typically sourced from soybean or sunflower lecithin (or sometimes egg yolk or marine sources).

Because they mirror the lipids naturally found in the deeper layers of your skin, topical phospholipids help reinforce the lipid matrix, reduce transepidermal water loss, and leave skin feeling conditioned.

They're also used to form liposomes, or tiny self-assembling vesible used to stabilize actives like vitamin c or retinol. This helps these ingredients integrate into the upper layers of skin more easily.

Phospholipids are compatible with everything and the CIR Expert Panel has concluded them to be safe at current use levels.

Some types of phospholipids include:

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Homosalate 10%
  2. 02Benzophenone-3 6%
  3. 03Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%
  4. 04Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%
  5. 05Octocrylene 2%
  6. 06Water
  7. 07Butylene Glycol
  8. 08PEG-8
  9. 09Polyethylene
  10. 10Silica
  11. 11Dimethicone
  12. 12Picrasma Excelsa Wood Extract
  13. 13Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
  14. 14Retinyl Palmitate
  15. 15Tocopherol
  16. 16Tocopheryl Acetate
  17. 17Titanium Dioxide
  18. 18Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
  19. 19Bentonite
  20. 20Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Paula's Choice Perfect Cleansing Oil

Paula's Choice Perfect Cleansing Oil Paula's Choice Perfect Cleansing Oil ingredients explained: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (Skin-Replenishing), Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil (No…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →

Product

Paula's Choice Resist Bha 9

Paula's Choice Resist Bha 9 Paula's Choice Resist Bha 9 ingredients explained: Propylene Glycol, PEG-75, PEG-8, Water, Salicylic Acid, Glycerin, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, Butylene …

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side