Skin science article
Paula's Choice Pro-Collagen Multi-Peptide Booster Versus Tula Skincare A+ Renewal Advanced Retinal & Peptides Serum
Paula's Choice Pro-Collagen Multi-Peptide Booster Versus Tula Skincare A+ Renewal Advanced Retinal & Peptides Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Retinal and Lactococcus Ferment Lysate to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. What's
Paula's Choice Pro-Collagen Multi-Peptide Booster Versus Tula Skincare A+ Renewal Advanced Retinal & Peptides Serum
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Retinal and Lactococcus Ferment Lysate to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Pentylene Glycol
Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Dimethicone
Propanediol
Ceramide AP
1,2-Hexanediol
Glyceryl Glucoside
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-72 Amide
Sh-Polypeptide-121
Tridecapeptide-1
Polyglucuronic Acid
Sodium Hyaluronate
C9-12 Alkane
Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Polygonum Bistorta Root Extract
Bacillus Ferment
Lecithin
Sodium Phytate
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Hexylene Glycol
Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose
Xanthan Gum
Ethylhexylglycerin
Caprylyl Glycol
Magnesium Chloride
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Water, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Dimethicone, Propanediol, Ceramide AP, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Glucoside, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-72 Amide, Sh-Polypeptide-121, Tridecapeptide-1, Polyglucuronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, C9-12 Alkane, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Polygonum Bistorta Root Extract, Bacillus Ferment, Lecithin, Sodium Phytate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Hexylene Glycol, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Magnesium Chloride, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate
C15-19 Alkane
Lactococcus Ferment Lysate
Cetyl Alcohol
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract
Ceramide As
Ceramide Ns
Ceramide EOP
Ceramide NP
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Lactobacillus
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Lactobacillus Ferment
Beta Vulgaris Root Extract
Retinal
Arginine
Diisostearyl Malate
Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide
Bisabolol
Inulin
Arachidyl Alcohol
Lactic Acid
Sclerotium Gum
Citric Acid
Behenyl Alcohol
Malic Acid
Polymnia Sonchifolia Root Juice
Arachidyl Glucoside
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Cellulose Gum
Glucose
Calcium Chloride
Fructose
Cholesterol
2,3-Butanediol
Calcium Alginate
Glyceryl Stearate
Cellulose
Sodium Hydroxide
Maltodextrin
Butylene Glycol
Sodium Chloride
Water, Propanediol, C15-19 Alkane, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Pentylene Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract, Tridecapeptide-1, Ceramide AP, Ceramide As, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide NP, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Lactobacillus, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment, Beta Vulgaris Root Extract, Retinal, Arginine, Diisostearyl Malate, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Bisabolol, Inulin, Arachidyl Alcohol, Lactic Acid, Sclerotium Gum, Citric Acid, Behenyl Alcohol, Malic Acid, Polymnia Sonchifolia Root Juice, Arachidyl Glucoside, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Cellulose Gum, Glucose, Calcium Chloride, Fructose, Cholesterol, Sodium Phytate, 2,3-Butanediol, Calcium Alginate, Glyceryl Stearate, Lecithin, Cellulose, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Maltodextrin, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Benzoate, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Chloride, Potassium Sorbate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Ceramide AP is is a skin-identical lipid that mimics what your skin already makes naturally. Ceramides help maintain epidermal integrity and barrier function.
You'll often see this ingredient paired with other ceramides (like ceramide NP), cholesterol, or fatty acids because this combination best mimics the natural lipid mix your skin already has.
The skin's ability to produce ceramides gets disrupted in skin conditions like eczema. This in turn weakens the skin barrier and applying ceramides topically has been shown to replenish what's been lost to restore barrier function.
Most of the studies with Ceramide AP test it as part of a multi-ceramide complex; studies reinforce ceramide AP's role in rebalancing ceramides in skin and improving skin hydration.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Sodium Phytate is the synthetic salt form of phytic acid. Phytic acid is an antioxidant and can be found in plant seeds.
Sodium Phytate is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metals from binding to water. This helps stabilize the ingredients and the product.
Tridecapeptide-1 is a synthetic peptide that gets marketed as a "Botox-like" because it is a neutrotransmitter peptide.
Your skin uses a chemical called acetylcholine to tell tiny facial muscles to move and Tridecapeptide-1 tries to take that chemical's spot. This makes muscles stay a little more relaxed and helps lines like crow's feet look softer.
Concentration-wise, the numbers come mostly from suppliers and brands; typical leave-on use lands between 1-10%.
The supplier does report that 1-3% gives a subtle short-term smoothing effect within 15 minutes to an hour for some users. Higher levels (3-10%) showed stronger results after four week of twice-daily use.
You might also see this ingredient paired with glycols at 2-5% to help performance.
At this time, all the efficacy data traces back to the supplier's in-house testing and not third-party trials. Though the bigger category this ingredient belongs to ("neuro" peptides) do have some published research suggesting topical peptides can give mild cosmetic smoothing.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.