Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Paula's Choice Probiotic Nutrient Moisturizer Versus Paula's Choice Earth Sourced Power Berry Serum

Paula's Choice Probiotic Nutrient Moisturizer Versus Paula's Choice Earth Sourced Power Berry Serum This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Lactobacillus Ferment and Bifida Ferment Lysate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This calmi

Paula's Choice Probiotic Nutrient Moisturizer Versus Paula's Choice Earth Sourced Power Berry Serum

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Lactobacillus Ferment and Bifida Ferment Lysate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This calming serum is formulated around Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to calm redness and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Isoamyl Laurate

Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

Sodium Polyacrylate Starch

Cetyl Alcohol

Lauroyl Lysine

Lactobacillus/Rye Flour Ferment

Lactobacillus Ferment

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Glucomannan

Saccharomyces Lysate

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Glycine Soja Seed Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Acetyl Hexapeptide-1

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-10

Ceramide Ng

Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil

Palmitoyl Proline

Glycine

Serine

Threonine

Alanine

Valine

Arginine

Proline

Lysine Hcl

Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract

Niacinamide

Adenosine

Lecithin

Phytic Acid

Yeast Extract

Faex

Tocopherol

Sodium PCA

Sodium Lactate

PCA

Magnesium Palmitoyl Glutamate

Sodium Palmitoyl Sarcosinate

Isopropyl Palmitate

Glutamic Acid

Betaine

Glyceryl Stearate

Hydroxyacetophenone

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Ceteth-20

Steareth-20

Polysorbate 20

PEG-75 Stearate

Caprylyl Glycol

Propylene Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Isoamyl Laurate, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Cetyl Alcohol, Lauroyl Lysine, Lactobacillus/Rye Flour Ferment, Lactobacillus Ferment, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Glucomannan, Saccharomyces Lysate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-10, Ceramide Ng, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Palmitoyl Proline, Glycine, Serine, Threonine, Alanine, Valine, Arginine, Proline, Lysine Hcl, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Niacinamide, Adenosine, Lecithin, Phytic Acid, Yeast Extract, Faex, Tocopherol, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, PCA, Magnesium Palmitoyl Glutamate, Sodium Palmitoyl Sarcosinate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Glutamic Acid, Betaine, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Polysorbate 20, PEG-75 Stearate, Caprylyl Glycol, Propylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Coco-Caprylate

Propanediol

Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract

Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract

Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract

Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract

Sambucus Nigra Fruit Extract

Malpighia Emarginata Fruit Extract

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract

Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract

Rubus Chamaemorus Fruit Extract

Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract

Plinia Cauliflora Fruit Extract

Fragaria Vesca Fruit Extract

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Myrciaria Dubia Fruit Extract

Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Squalane

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11

Prunus Domestica Seed Oil

Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract

Brassica Campestris Seed Oil

Xanthan Gum

Mannitol

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Water, Glycerin, Coco-Caprylate, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Glyceryl Stearate, Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Sambucus Nigra Fruit Extract, Malpighia Emarginata Fruit Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract, Rubus Chamaemorus Fruit Extract, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, Plinia Cauliflora Fruit Extract, Fragaria Vesca Fruit Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Myrciaria Dubia Fruit Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Squalane, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tocopherol, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Prunus Domestica Seed Oil, Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Brassica Campestris Seed Oil, Xanthan Gum, Mannitol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate is a natural preservative. It comes from fermenting radish roots with a bacteria called leuconostoc. The trade name for this ingredient is Leucidal.

Leuconostoc comes from lactic acid.

This ingredient has antimicrobial properties and helps prevent the growth of bacteria in a product.

Leuconostoc is used to make the traditional Korean side-dish, kimchi. It is also used to make sourdough bread (both incredibly yummy foods).

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

We don't have a description for Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract yet.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD) is a stable and oil-soluble form of Vitamin C.

THD is special in that it has the ability to travel deeper into skin than traditional ascorbic acid while maintaining the same skin benefits (double win!).

Because it’s oil-soluble, THD dives deep into your skin’s fatty layers (think ceramides and cholesterol) to fight off the kind of free radicals that mess with your skin barrier. This makes it a great pair with water-based vitamin C (ascorbic acid) that mainly works on the surface.

Even at just 0.1%, THD is already showing great antioxidant activity. When used up to 2%, it helps keep your skin happy and calm, especially when it’s stressed from pollution or sun.

Want to fade dark spots or tackle hyperpigmentation? You’ll want 5% or more. Pairing it with brightening buddies like niacinamide or licorice root gives even better results. One study even used 30% THD with other brighteners and saw real results on stubborn discoloration, even in melasma-prone skin.

A note on THD: It’s has a slightly silky, oily texture and usually shows up colorless or pale yellow (though the exact shade can vary by supplier).

While you can sneak it into water-based formulas, it really shines when paired with silicones or oils, which help your skin soak it up better.

THD is pretty stable, but it’s still vulnerable to degradation like ascorbic acid. Too much light or heat (above 113°F / 45°C) can break it down over time. Go for dark and opaque packaging that keeps it safe and shady!

Read more about other types of Vitamin C:

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Methylpropanediol
  3. 03Butylene Glycol
  4. 04Salicylic Acid
  5. 05Polysorbate 20
  6. 06Camellia Oleifera Leaf
  7. 07Sodium Hydroxide
  8. 08Tetrasodium EDTA
  9. 09Water, Methylpropanediol, Butylene Glycol, Salicylic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Camellia Oleifera Leaf, Sodium Hydroxide, Tetrasodium EDTA
  10. 10Glycerin
  11. 11Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate
  12. 12Cetearyl Alcohol
  13. 13Dimethicone
  14. 14Glycolic Acid
  15. 15Lactic Acid
  16. 16Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
  17. 17Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
  18. 18Ceramide NP
  19. 19Ceramide AP
  20. 20Ceramide EOP
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Paula's Choice Shine Stopper

Paula's Choice Shine Stopper Paula's Choice Shine Stopper ingredients explained: Aqua, Methyl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer (Film-Forming Agent/Absorbent Polymer), Capryli…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side