Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Paula's Choice Probiotic Nutrient Moisturizer Versus Paula's Choice Moisture Boost Daily Restoring Complex SPF 30

Paula's Choice Probiotic Nutrient Moisturizer Versus Paula's Choice Moisture Boost Daily Restoring Complex SPF 30 This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Lactobacillus Ferment and Bifida Ferment Lysate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate sk

Paula's Choice Probiotic Nutrient Moisturizer Versus Paula's Choice Moisture Boost Daily Restoring Complex SPF 30

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Lactobacillus Ferment and Bifida Ferment Lysate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This brightening moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Retinyl Palmitate to brighten dull-looking skin and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Isoamyl Laurate

Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

Sodium Polyacrylate Starch

Cetyl Alcohol

Lauroyl Lysine

Lactobacillus/Rye Flour Ferment

Lactobacillus Ferment

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Glucomannan

Saccharomyces Lysate

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Glycine Soja Seed Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Acetyl Hexapeptide-1

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-10

Ceramide Ng

Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil

Palmitoyl Proline

Glycine

Serine

Threonine

Alanine

Valine

Arginine

Proline

Lysine Hcl

Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract

Niacinamide

Adenosine

Lecithin

Phytic Acid

Yeast Extract

Faex

Tocopherol

Sodium PCA

Sodium Lactate

PCA

Magnesium Palmitoyl Glutamate

Sodium Palmitoyl Sarcosinate

Isopropyl Palmitate

Glutamic Acid

Betaine

Glyceryl Stearate

Hydroxyacetophenone

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Ceteth-20

Steareth-20

Polysorbate 20

PEG-75 Stearate

Caprylyl Glycol

Propylene Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Isoamyl Laurate, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Cetyl Alcohol, Lauroyl Lysine, Lactobacillus/Rye Flour Ferment, Lactobacillus Ferment, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Glucomannan, Saccharomyces Lysate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-10, Ceramide Ng, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Palmitoyl Proline, Glycine, Serine, Threonine, Alanine, Valine, Arginine, Proline, Lysine Hcl, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Niacinamide, Adenosine, Lecithin, Phytic Acid, Yeast Extract, Faex, Tocopherol, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, PCA, Magnesium Palmitoyl Glutamate, Sodium Palmitoyl Sarcosinate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Glutamic Acid, Betaine, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Polysorbate 20, PEG-75 Stearate, Caprylyl Glycol, Propylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane

Homosalate

Ethylhexyl Salicylate

Octocrylene

Benzophenone-3

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Vp/Eicosene Copolymer

Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Dimethicone

Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Retinyl Palmitate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Picea Abies Wood Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Titanium Dioxide

Bentonite

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Sodium Polyacrylate

Disodium EDTA

Sodium Hydroxide

Chlorphenesin

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Homosalate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Octocrylene, Benzophenone-3, Water, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Butylene Glycol, Vp/Eicosene Copolymer, Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Picea Abies Wood Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Titanium Dioxide, Bentonite, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Polyacrylate, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin

Reviews

Be the first to review

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
  4. 04The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure …
  5. 05Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
  6. 06Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
  7. 07It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
  8. 08On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
  9. 09Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
  10. 10You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
  11. 11Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
  12. 12Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
  13. 13Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
  14. 14Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
  15. 15It’s often used to:
  16. 16Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
  17. 17Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
  18. 18So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
  19. 19You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side