Skin science article
Paula's Choice Radiance Renewal Mask Versus Paula's Choice Omega+ Complex Serum
Paula's Choice Radiance Renewal Mask Versus Paula's Choice Omega+ Complex Serum This brightening overnight mask is formulated around Niacinamide and Arbutin to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots. This barrier-repair serum is formulated
Paula's Choice Radiance Renewal Mask Versus Paula's Choice Omega+ Complex Serum
This brightening overnight mask is formulated around Niacinamide and Arbutin to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Linoleic Acid and Linolenic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Butylene Glycol
Glycerin
Dimethicone
Niacinamide
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Carrageenan
Arbutin
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract
Allantoin
Isohexadecane
Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil
Salix Alba Bark Extract
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Polysorbate 60
Citric Acid
Xanthan Gum
Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine
Phenoxyethanol
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Niacinamide, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Carrageenan, Arbutin, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract, Allantoin, Isohexadecane, Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Polysorbate 60, Citric Acid, Xanthan Gum, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate
Diheptyl Succinate
Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters
Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil
Linoleic Acid
Linolenic Acid
Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil
Ceramide EOP
Ceramide Eos
Ceramide NP
Ceramide Ns
Caprooyl Sphingosine
Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables
Caprooyl Phytosphingosine
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cholesterol
Ceramide AP
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Unsaponifiables
Tocopherol
Prunus Domestica Seed Oil
Lauryl Laurate
Glyceryl Behenate
Sodium Phytate
Trehalose
Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
Cetyl Alcohol
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Agar
Glyceryl Stearate
Ceteareth-25
Cetearyl Alcohol
Behenic Acid
Glyceryl Rosinate
Benzyl Alcohol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Water, Glycerin, Diheptyl Succinate, Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide Eos, Ceramide NP, Ceramide Ns, Caprooyl Sphingosine, Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables, Caprooyl Phytosphingosine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Cholesterol, Ceramide AP, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Unsaponifiables, Tocopherol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Prunus Domestica Seed Oil, Lauryl Laurate, Glyceryl Behenate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Phytate, Trehalose, Isohexadecane, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Cetyl Alcohol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Agar, Glyceryl Stearate, Ceteareth-25, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behenic Acid, Glyceryl Rosinate, Citric Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
This is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.
It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.
Isohexadecane is added to enhance texture, emulsify, and to help cleanse. It is an isoparrafin. It is a component of petrolatum.
Due to its large size, Isohexadecane is not absorbed by the skin. Instead, it sits on top and acts as an emollient. Emollients help keep your skin soft and smooth by trapping moisture within.
Isohexadecane is often used in products designed to help oily skin. It is lightweight and non-greasy while helping to moisturize. When mixed with silicones, it gives a product a silky feel.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.