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Skin science article

Paula's Choice RESIST Advanced Smoothing Treatment 10% AHA Versus Theramid Smoothing Treatment

Paula's Choice RESIST Advanced Smoothing Treatment 10% AHA Versus Theramid Smoothing Treatment This smoothing treatment is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid to refine skin texture and soften the look of wrinkles. This smoothing serum is formulate

Paula's Choice RESIST Advanced Smoothing Treatment 10% AHA Versus Theramid Smoothing Treatment

This smoothing treatment is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid to refine skin texture and soften the look of wrinkles.

This smoothing serum is formulated around Mandelic Acid and Gluconolactone to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Glycolic Acid

Glycerin

Lactic Acid

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Malic Acid

Tartaric Acid

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Ceramide Ng

Salicylic Acid

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Punica Granatum Extract

Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract

Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract

Sambucus Nigra Fruit Extract

Camellia Oleifera Leaf

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Peucedanum Graveolens Extract

Allantoin

Adenosine

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Bisabolol

Polyquaternium-10

Xanthan Gum

Carbomer

Polysorbate 20

Sodium Bicarbonate

Sodium Hydroxide

Aminomethyl Propanol

Phenoxyethanol

Benzyl Alcohol

Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycolic Acid, Glycerin, Lactic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Malic Acid, Tartaric Acid, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Ceramide Ng, Salicylic Acid, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Punica Granatum Extract, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Sambucus Nigra Fruit Extract, Camellia Oleifera Leaf, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Peucedanum Graveolens Extract, Allantoin, Adenosine, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Bisabolol, Polyquaternium-10, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Bicarbonate, Sodium Hydroxide, Aminomethyl Propanol, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol

Propanediol

Mandelic Acid

Gluconolactone

Cyclopentasiloxane

Dimethicone

Betaine

Cyclohexasiloxane

PEG-10 Dimethicone

Sodium Chloride

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone

Pentapeptide-59

Maltodextrin

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Phenethyl Alcohol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Disodium EDTA

Water, Propanediol, Mandelic Acid, Gluconolactone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Betaine, Cyclohexasiloxane, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Sodium Chloride, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Pentapeptide-59, Maltodextrin, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Phenethyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
  4. 04Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
  5. 05In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
  6. 06Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
  7. 07Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
  8. 08While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
  9. 09This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
  10. 10Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
  11. 11Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
  12. 12In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
  13. 13While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
  14. 14Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
  15. 15This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
  16. 16This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures…
  17. 17Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
  18. 18Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
  19. 19It plays several roles in a formula:
  20. 20Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

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03

Comparison edit

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