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Skin science article

Paula's Choice RESIST Daily Smoothing Treatment With 5% AHA Versus Murad AHA/BHA/Retinoid Daily Clarifying Peel

Paula's Choice RESIST Daily Smoothing Treatment With 5% AHA Versus Murad AHA/BHA/Retinoid Daily Clarifying Peel This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 to refine skin texture and soften the look of wrinkles. Th

Paula's Choice RESIST Daily Smoothing Treatment With 5% AHA Versus Murad AHA/BHA/Retinoid Daily Clarifying Peel

This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 to refine skin texture and soften the look of wrinkles.

This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Retinyl Propionate to refine skin texture and refine the look of pores.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycolic Acid

Cetyl Alcohol

Butylene Glycol

Polyacrylamide

Dimethicone

PPG-14 Butyl Ether

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Ceramide Ng

Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane

Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane

Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane

Epigallocatechin Gallate

Salicylic Acid

Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates

PEG-10 Phytosterol

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract

Bisabolol

Allantoin

Cyclopentasiloxane

Cyclohexasiloxane

Dimethiconol

Tribehenin

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

PEG-40 Stearate

Sorbitan Stearate

Pvm/Ma Decadiene Crosspolymer

Disodium EDTA

C13-14 Isoparaffin

Laureth-7

Sodium Hydroxide

Caprylyl Glycol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Hexylene Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Glycolic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Polyacrylamide, Dimethicone, PPG-14 Butyl Ether, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Ceramide Ng, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Salicylic Acid, Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates, PEG-10 Phytosterol, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Bisabolol, Allantoin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Dimethiconol, Tribehenin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, PEG-40 Stearate, Sorbitan Stearate, Pvm/Ma Decadiene Crosspolymer, Disodium EDTA, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth-7, Sodium Hydroxide, Caprylyl Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hexylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol

Hamamelis Virginiana Water

Pentylene Glycol

Glycerin

Propanediol

Butyl Avocadate

Retinyl Propionate

Zinc Gluconate

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Rosa Canina Fruit Extract

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Urea

Yeast Amino Acids

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

BHT

Betaine

Inositol

Taurine

Trehalose

Tocopherol

Benzoic Acid

Limonene

Linalool

Citronellol

Geraniol

Benzyl Benzoate

Citral

Parfum

Potassium Sorbate

Water, Dimethicone, Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Propanediol, Butyl Avocadate, Butylene Glycol, Glycolic Acid, Retinyl Propionate, Allantoin, Zinc Gluconate, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Urea, Yeast Amino Acids, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, BHT, Betaine, Inositol, Taurine, Trehalose, Tocopherol, Salicylic Acid, Benzoic Acid, Limonene, Linalool, Citronellol, Geraniol, Benzyl Benzoate, Citral, Parfum, Potassium Sorbate, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.

Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.

Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.

It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.

Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.

This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.

Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.

Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Glycolic Acid is arguably the most famous alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) with tons of research backing its benefits.

It is found naturally in sugar cane but the form used in skincare is usually synthetic for purity and stability.

Glycolic acid removes the top layer of dead skin cells to allow newer and fresher ones to emerge.

AHAs work by breaking down the structural “glue” that holds old skin cells in place. When that buildup is gone, your skin can renew itself more efficiently.

Research also shows glycolic acid stimulates collagen production, helping to firm and thicken the skin over time. This is one of its biggest advantages over other AHAs.

Overall, glycolic acid helps with:

Fun fact: Glycolic acid boosts skin hydration by helping it produce molecules that increase hyaluronic acid naturally.

To work best, glycolic acid products should have a pH between 3-4 (that’s where exfoliation is most effective but still gentle on skin).

The pH and concentration of a product are key to its effectiveness:

It is normal to feel a slight stinging sensation when using glycolic acid. This usually fades as your skin adjusts.

Because glycolic acid has the smallest molecular size in the AHA family, it can penetrate deeper, which enhances its effectiveness but also makes it more likely to irritate sensitive skin.

If your skin is very sensitive or prone to rosacea, glycolic acid may be too strong; in that case, try milder options like lactic acid or a PHA instead.

Recent studies suggest glycolic acid might even help protect against UV damage. But don’t skip sunscreen! Freshly exfoliated skin is more sensitive to the sun.

Glycolic acid is a skincare superstar. It smooths, brightens, hydrates, and firms the skin. Unless you’re highly sensitive, it’s well worth adding to your routine.

Read more about some other popular AHA's here:

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Salicylic Acid (also known as beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a well-known ingredient for treating skin that struggles with acne and clogged pores. It exfoliates both the skin's surface and deep within the pores to help clear out buildup, control oil, and reduce inflammation.

Unlike AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble. This allows it to penetrate into pores which makes it especially effective for treating blackheads and preventing future breakouts.

Salicylic acid is also known for its soothing properties. It has a similar structure to aspirin and can calm inflamed or irritated skin, making it a good option for acne-prone skin that is also sensitive.

Concentrations of 0.5-2% are recognized by the U.S. FDA as an over-the-counter topical acne product.

It can cause irritation and/or dryness if one's skin already has a compromised moisture barrier, so it's best to focus on repairing that before introducing this ingredient into your routine.

While salicylic acid does not increase sun sensitivity, it’s still important to wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin.

If you are looking for the ingredient called BHA or Butylated Hydroxyanisole, click here.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
  4. 04Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
  5. 05Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
  6. 06Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
  7. 07Its main roles are:
  8. 08Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
  9. 09The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
  10. 10This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
  11. 11Ergothioneine is an amino acid found naturally in mushrooms, grains, and meat. It has antioxidant and skin soothing properties.
  12. 12This amino acid helps with:
  13. 13Maintaining DNA stability and cell reproduction
  14. 14Enhances cellular immunity
  15. 15Skin brightening
  16. 16Anti-aging
  17. 17Skin soothing
  18. 18Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
  19. 19The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure …
  20. 20Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

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03

Comparison edit

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