Skin science article
Paula's Choice Resist Skin Restoring Moisturizer With SPF 50 Versus La Roche-Posay Anthelios SPF 50 Gentle Lotion Mineral Sunscreen
Paula's Choice Resist Skin Restoring Moisturizer With SPF 50 Versus La Roche-Posay Anthelios SPF 50 Gentle Lotion Mineral Sunscreen This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Allantoin and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the loo
Paula's Choice Resist Skin Restoring Moisturizer With SPF 50 Versus La Roche-Posay Anthelios SPF 50 Gentle Lotion Mineral Sunscreen
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Allantoin and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.
This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%
Homosalate 5%
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 7.5%
Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%
Benzophenone-3
Water
Silica
Glycerin
Cetearyl Alcohol
Dimethicone
Butylene Glycol
Pentylene Glycol
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Cyclopentasiloxane
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Vp/Eicosene Copolymer
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Allantoin
Niacinamide
Tocopherol
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Atractylodes Macrocephala Root Powder
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Coffea Arabica Seed Extract
Portulaca Oleracea Extract
Mahonia Aquifolium Root Extract
Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate
Sarcosine
Capryloyl Glycine
Maltooligosyl Glucoside
Cetearyl Glucoside
Dimethiconol
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate
Hexylene Glycol
4-T-Butylcyclohexanol
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Sodium Hydroxide
Xanthan Gum
Disodium EDTA
Phenoxyethanol
Caprylyl Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%, Homosalate 5%, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 7.5%, Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%, Benzophenone-3, Water, Silica, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Vp/Eicosene Copolymer, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Allantoin, Niacinamide, Tocopherol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Atractylodes Macrocephala Root Powder, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Mahonia Aquifolium Root Extract, Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate, Sarcosine, Capryloyl Glycine, Maltooligosyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Glucoside, Dimethiconol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Hexylene Glycol, 4-T-Butylcyclohexanol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Sodium Hydroxide, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Titanium Dioxide 5%
Zinc Oxide 15%
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Isohexadecane
Isononyl Isononanoate
Dicaprylyl Ether
PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Ethylene/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Triethylhexanoin
Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate
Citric Acid
Sodium Chloride
Triethoxycaprylylsilane
Aluminum Hydroxide
Stearic Acid
Aluminum Stearate
Chlorphenesin
Disteardimonium Hectorite
Alumina
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
P-Anisic Acid
Capryloyl Salicylic Acid
Propylene Carbonate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Cassia Alata Leaf Extract
Maltodextrin
Titanium Dioxide 5%, Zinc Oxide 15%, Water, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Isohexadecane, Isononyl Isononanoate, Dicaprylyl Ether, PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Ethylene/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Triethylhexanoin, Silica, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Chloride, Caprylyl Glycol, Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Aluminum Hydroxide, Stearic Acid, Aluminum Stearate, Chlorphenesin, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Alumina, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Tocopherol, P-Anisic Acid, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Propylene Carbonate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cassia Alata Leaf Extract, Maltodextrin
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate (DESM) is a photostabilizer, antioxidant, and SPF booster.
One of DESM's main roles is stabilizing UV filters, especially avobenzone. Avobenzone is notoriously unstable when exposed to sunlight. By enhancing the stability of these filters, DESM helps maintain the sunscreen's effectivess through wear. It also helps improve protection against long-wave UVA rays by increasing the wavelength of the formula.
Besides enhancing UVA protection, DESM can boost the SPF of high-SPF formulations by up to 5 units.
DESM also preserves the color integrity of cosmetic products and helps reduce the chance of yellowing of fading due to light exposure.
This ingredient is typically found in concentrations between 0.3% - 0.5%. There are currently no maximum usage limits by regulatory bodies.
Though this ingredient is a chemical UV filter, it can often be found in "100% mineral" sunscreens. This is due to regulatory loopholes.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.
Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.
The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.
It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.
In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.