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Paula's Choice Resist Super Antioxidant Serum Versus Elemis Pro-Collagen Renewal Serum

Paula's Choice Resist Super Antioxidant Serum Versus Elemis Pro-Collagen Renewal Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin. What's inside

Paula's Choice Resist Super Antioxidant Serum Versus Elemis Pro-Collagen Renewal Serum

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Cyclopentasiloxane

Dimethicone

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Ceramide NP

Tocotrienols

Tocopherol

Ubiquinone

Thioctic Acid

Tocopheryl Acetate

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Ferulic Acid

Beta-Glucan

Superoxide Dismutase

Epigallocatechin Gallate

Ergothioneine

Glutathione

Xanthophylls

Glycine Soja Seed Extract

Glycerin

Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract

Lupinus Albus Seed Extract

Curcuma Longa Root

Elaeis Guineensis Oil

Phenoxyethanol

Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Ceramide NP, Tocotrienols, Tocopherol, Ubiquinone, Thioctic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ferulic Acid, Beta-Glucan, Superoxide Dismutase, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Ergothioneine, Glutathione, Xanthophylls, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Glycerin, Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract, Lupinus Albus Seed Extract, Curcuma Longa Root, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Phenoxyethanol

Water

Pentylene Glycol

Lysine Aspartate

Polysorbate 20

Hydroxyacetophenone

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Disodium EDTA

Parfum

Cichorium Intybus Leaf Extract

Hexylene Glycol

Maris Aqua

Stevia Rebaudiana Leaf/Stem Extract

Polysorbate 60

Sodium Hydroxide

Sorbitan Isostearate

Caprylyl Glycol

Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract

Xanthan Gum

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Porphyridium Cruentum Extract

Medicago Sativa Extract

T-Butyl Alcohol

Acacia Decurrens Flower Extract

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Collagen Amino Acids

Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract

Linalool

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Citronellol

Geraniol

Sodium Benzoate

Water, Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, Lysine Aspartate, Polysorbate 20, Hydroxyacetophenone, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Disodium EDTA, Parfum, Cichorium Intybus Leaf Extract, Hexylene Glycol, Maris Aqua, Stevia Rebaudiana Leaf/Stem Extract, Polysorbate 60, Sodium Hydroxide, Sorbitan Isostearate, Caprylyl Glycol, Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract, Xanthan Gum, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Medicago Sativa Extract, Phenoxyethanol, T-Butyl Alcohol, Acacia Decurrens Flower Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Collagen Amino Acids, Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract, Linalool, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Citronellol, Geraniol, Sodium Benzoate

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

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The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Behenyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol (these are different from the drying, solvent alcohols).
  4. 04Fatty Alcohols have hydrating properties and are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product. They are usually derived from natural fats and oils; behenyl alcohol is derived from the fats of vegetable oils.
  5. 05Emollients help keep your skin soft and hydrated by creating a film that traps moisture in.
  6. 06In 2000, Behenyl Alcohol was approved by the US as medicine to reduce the duration of cold sores.
  7. 07Benzoic Acid is an organic acid that shows up in cosmetics as a preservative. It helps keep a product from spoiling by holding back the growth of yeast, mold, and some bacteria.
  8. 08This ingredient also functions as a fragrance ingredient that helps mask the unpleasant scent of other ingredients.
  9. 09The way it works is worth understanding; benzoic acid works when the formula is acidic. It is able to sneak into a microbe's cell and mess up how it functions to stop it from growing in an acidic product.
  10. 10However, the acid switches to an inactive form and stops working if a product isn't acidic enough (above ~5 pH). This is why you'll often see it in low pH products or teamed up with other preservatives to cover the gap.
  11. 11Safety wise, it's one of the better studied preservatives out there.
  12. 12The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe for use in cosmetic formulations at concentrations up to 5%.
  13. 13A large international review found this ingredient had no effects on the human body and had low irritation potential.
  14. 14Just so you know, real world use is usually much lower than the 5% ceiling (usually 1% of less).
  15. 15The EU caps it at 2.5% in rinse-off products, 1.7% in oral care, and 0.5% in leave-on products.
  16. 16One thing worth mentioning (it's nothing to worry about): some people get a little stinging or flushing where they apply it. This isn't a true allergy; it's a temporary and harmless reaction. This is the same kind of mild tingle you might notice fro…
  17. 17Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
  18. 18Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
  19. 19Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
  20. 20C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is a lightweight emollient made by combinig benzoic acid with fatty alcohols that are 12-15 carbons long.
Source · skinsort.com
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Product index

Related product references

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Comparison edit

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