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Skin science article

Paula's Choice Resist Super-Light Wrinkle Defense SPF 30 Versus Ultrasun Face Anti-Ageing Lotion SPF 30

Paula's Choice Resist Super-Light Wrinkle Defense SPF 30 Versus Ultrasun Face Anti-Ageing Lotion SPF 30 This mineral sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~97% of UVB at SPF 30. This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~97% of UVB at S

Paula's Choice Resist Super-Light Wrinkle Defense SPF 30 Versus Ultrasun Face Anti-Ageing Lotion SPF 30

This mineral sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~97% of UVB at SPF 30.

This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~97% of UVB at SPF 30.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Cyclopentasiloxane

Zinc Oxide

PEG-12 Dimethicone

PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone

Lauroyl Lysine

Sodium Chloride

Trihydroxystearin

Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Resveratrol

Quercetin

Epigallocatechin Gallate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Adenosine

Bisabolol

Salix Nigra Bark Extract

Punica Granatum Extract

Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract

Hydrolyzed Corn Starch

Polysorbate 80

Hydrated Silica

Triethoxycaprylylsilane

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate

Caprylyl Glycol

Hexylene Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Iron Oxides

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Zinc Oxide, PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Lauroyl Lysine, Sodium Chloride, Trihydroxystearin, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Resveratrol, Quercetin, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Adenosine, Bisabolol, Salix Nigra Bark Extract, Punica Granatum Extract, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Polysorbate 80, Hydrated Silica, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Iron Oxides, Phenoxyethanol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Pentylene Glycol

Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol

Titanium Dioxide

Ethylhexyl Salicylate

Glycerin

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate

Ethylhexyl Triazone

C8-22 Alkyl Acrylates/Methacrylic Acid Crosspolymer

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Squalane

Ectoin

Cocoglycerides

Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine

Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract

Decyl Glucoside

Silica

Propyl Alcohol

Alcohol

Cetyl Phosphate

Xanthan Gum

Propylene Glycol

T-Butyl Alcohol

Lecithin

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Tocopherol

Diisopropyl Adipate

Ubiquinone

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentylene Glycol, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Titanium Dioxide, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Glycerin, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, C8-22 Alkyl Acrylates/Methacrylic Acid Crosspolymer, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Squalane, Ectoin, Cocoglycerides, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Decyl Glucoside, Silica, Propyl Alcohol, Alcohol, Cetyl Phosphate, Xanthan Gum, Propylene Glycol, T-Butyl Alcohol, Lecithin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Tocopherol, Diisopropyl Adipate, Ubiquinone

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is a lightweight emollient made by combinig benzoic acid with fatty alcohols that are 12-15 carbons long.

In cosmetics, it plays several roles:

The Cosmetic Review Expert Panel has concluded the alkyl benzoate group to be safe as used in cosmetics; it wasn't found to be a skin irritant and unlikely to be absorbed due to its low water solubility.

This report recorded almost 1000 reported uses with concentrations up to 59% in leave-on products but your cosmetics will typically use 0.5-15% depending on the product.

It's often called a "SPF booster": this is because it keeps UV filters properly dissolved and evenly distributed to support a sunscreen's performance. It doesn't actually raise SPF on its own.

Overall, this ingredient is well tolerated.

This ingredient is fungal acne safe because it is an ester of benzoic acid.

Think of this ingredient as two parts stuck together: an oily part and an acid part. Malassezia only gets a meal when it can snip off a fatty acid to eat. With C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, the acid part is benzoic acid, which isn't a fatty acid and which the yeast can't use as food.

Benzoic acid is actually used as a preservative to stop yeast from growing.

The oily part is a blend of C12-15 fatty alcohols but fatty alcohols in this size range can support only a little Malassezia growth (mostly for one species of Malassezia as well).

In the ingredient, those alcohols stay locked inside the molecule. The yeast can only reach them by snipping the benzoate bond, and that type of bond is harder for it to cut than a normal fatty bond.

So not much gets released. And whatever does get snipped comes packaged with benzoic acid, which discourages yeast growth.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
  3. 03Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
  4. 04Dimethicone
  5. 05Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate
  6. 06Propanediol
  7. 07Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
  8. 08Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
  9. 09Retinal
  10. 10Oleyl Adapalenate
  11. 11Tocopherol
  12. 12Tocopheryl Acetate
  13. 13Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate
  14. 14Albatrellus Confluens Extract
  15. 15Punica Granatum Pericarp Extract
  16. 16Glyceryl Stearate
  17. 17Stearyl Alcohol
  18. 18Hydroxyapatite
  19. 19Butylene Glycol
  20. 20Cetyl Glyceryl Ether
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side