Skin science article
Paula's Choice Resist Super-Light Wrinkle Defense SPF 30 Versus Ultrasun Face Anti-Ageing Lotion SPF 30
Paula's Choice Resist Super-Light Wrinkle Defense SPF 30 Versus Ultrasun Face Anti-Ageing Lotion SPF 30 This mineral sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~97% of UVB at SPF 30. This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~97% of UVB at S
Paula's Choice Resist Super-Light Wrinkle Defense SPF 30 Versus Ultrasun Face Anti-Ageing Lotion SPF 30
This mineral sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~97% of UVB at SPF 30.
This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~97% of UVB at SPF 30.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Cyclopentasiloxane
Zinc Oxide
PEG-12 Dimethicone
PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone
Lauroyl Lysine
Sodium Chloride
Trihydroxystearin
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Resveratrol
Quercetin
Epigallocatechin Gallate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Adenosine
Bisabolol
Salix Nigra Bark Extract
Punica Granatum Extract
Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract
Hydrolyzed Corn Starch
Polysorbate 80
Hydrated Silica
Triethoxycaprylylsilane
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate
Caprylyl Glycol
Hexylene Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Iron Oxides
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Zinc Oxide, PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Lauroyl Lysine, Sodium Chloride, Trihydroxystearin, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Resveratrol, Quercetin, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Adenosine, Bisabolol, Salix Nigra Bark Extract, Punica Granatum Extract, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Polysorbate 80, Hydrated Silica, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Iron Oxides, Phenoxyethanol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Pentylene Glycol
Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol
Titanium Dioxide
Ethylhexyl Salicylate
Glycerin
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
Ethylhexyl Triazone
C8-22 Alkyl Acrylates/Methacrylic Acid Crosspolymer
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Squalane
Ectoin
Cocoglycerides
Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine
Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract
Decyl Glucoside
Silica
Propyl Alcohol
Alcohol
Cetyl Phosphate
Xanthan Gum
Propylene Glycol
T-Butyl Alcohol
Lecithin
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
Tocopherol
Diisopropyl Adipate
Ubiquinone
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentylene Glycol, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Titanium Dioxide, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Glycerin, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, C8-22 Alkyl Acrylates/Methacrylic Acid Crosspolymer, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Squalane, Ectoin, Cocoglycerides, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Decyl Glucoside, Silica, Propyl Alcohol, Alcohol, Cetyl Phosphate, Xanthan Gum, Propylene Glycol, T-Butyl Alcohol, Lecithin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Tocopherol, Diisopropyl Adipate, Ubiquinone
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is a lightweight emollient made by combinig benzoic acid with fatty alcohols that are 12-15 carbons long.
In cosmetics, it plays several roles:
The Cosmetic Review Expert Panel has concluded the alkyl benzoate group to be safe as used in cosmetics; it wasn't found to be a skin irritant and unlikely to be absorbed due to its low water solubility.
This report recorded almost 1000 reported uses with concentrations up to 59% in leave-on products but your cosmetics will typically use 0.5-15% depending on the product.
It's often called a "SPF booster": this is because it keeps UV filters properly dissolved and evenly distributed to support a sunscreen's performance. It doesn't actually raise SPF on its own.
Overall, this ingredient is well tolerated.
This ingredient is fungal acne safe because it is an ester of benzoic acid.
Think of this ingredient as two parts stuck together: an oily part and an acid part. Malassezia only gets a meal when it can snip off a fatty acid to eat. With C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, the acid part is benzoic acid, which isn't a fatty acid and which the yeast can't use as food.
Benzoic acid is actually used as a preservative to stop yeast from growing.
The oily part is a blend of C12-15 fatty alcohols but fatty alcohols in this size range can support only a little Malassezia growth (mostly for one species of Malassezia as well).
In the ingredient, those alcohols stay locked inside the molecule. The yeast can only reach them by snipping the benzoate bond, and that type of bond is harder for it to cut than a normal fatty bond.
So not much gets released. And whatever does get snipped comes packaged with benzoic acid, which discourages yeast growth.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!