Skin science article
Paula's Choice Resist Ultra-Light Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum Versus 111Skin Vitamin C Brightening Booster
Paula's Choice Resist Ultra-Light Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum Versus 111Skin Vitamin C Brightening Booster This anti-aging serum is formulated around Resveratrol and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and calm redness. This brightening serum is
Paula's Choice Resist Ultra-Light Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum Versus 111Skin Vitamin C Brightening Booster
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Resveratrol and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and calm redness.
This brightening serum is formulated around Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Cyclopentasiloxane
Butylene Glycol
Dimethicone
Glycerin
Polysorbate 20
Polysilicone-11
Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
Hyaluronic Acid
Resveratrol
Niacinamide
Quercetin
Adenosine
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Tocopherol
Phospholipids
Ubiquinone
Epigallocatechin Gallate
Sea Whip Extract
Bisabolol
Beta-Glucan
Phytic Acid
Xanthan Gum
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Hydroxide
Disodium EDTA
Ethylhexylglycerin
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Polysorbate 20, Polysilicone-11, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Hyaluronic Acid, Resveratrol, Niacinamide, Quercetin, Adenosine, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tocopherol, Phospholipids, Ubiquinone, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Sea Whip Extract, Bisabolol, Beta-Glucan, Phytic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Citric Acid
Cellulose Gum
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Sodium Benzoate
Glutathione
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Acetyl Cysteine
Parfum
Water, Glycerin, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Citric Acid, Cellulose Gum, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Benzoate, Glutathione, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Acetyl Cysteine, Parfum
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!