Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Paula's Choice Resist Youth-Extending Daily Hydrating Fluid SPF 50 Versus CeraVe AM Facial Moisturising Lotion SPF30

Paula's Choice Resist Youth-Extending Daily Hydrating Fluid SPF 50 Versus CeraVe AM Facial Moisturising Lotion SPF30 This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50. This barrier-repair day moisturizer is formulated around Niaci

Paula's Choice Resist Youth-Extending Daily Hydrating Fluid SPF 50 Versus CeraVe AM Facial Moisturising Lotion SPF30

This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.

This barrier-repair day moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 2%

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 7.5%

Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%

Octocrylene 2%

Water

Glycerin

Silica

Dimethicone

Tocopherol

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract

Peucedanum Graveolens Extract

Sambucus Nigra Fruit Extract

Avena Sativa Bran Extract

Punica Granatum Extract

Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Titanium Dioxide

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Xanthan Gum

Sodium Carbomer

Benzyl Alcohol

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Phenoxyethanol

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 2%, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 7.5%, Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%, Octocrylene 2%, Water, Glycerin, Silica, Dimethicone, Tocopherol, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Peucedanum Graveolens Extract, Sambucus Nigra Fruit Extract, Avena Sativa Bran Extract, Punica Granatum Extract, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Titanium Dioxide, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Carbomer, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol

Homosalate 10%

Menthyl Anthranilate 5%

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 5%

Zinc Oxide 6.3%

Niacinamide

Cetearyl Alcohol

Behentrimonium Methosulfate

BHT

Ceramide NP

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Carbomer

Triethoxycaprylylsilane

Methylparaben

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Cholesterol

Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate

Disodium EDTA

Propylparaben

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Phytosphingosine

Homosalate 10%, Menthyl Anthranilate 5%, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 5%, Octocrylene 2%, Zinc Oxide 6.3%, Water, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Dimethicone, BHT, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Carbomer, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Methylparaben, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Cholesterol, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Disodium EDTA, Propylparaben, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Phytosphingosine, Xanthan Gum

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

This ingredient is also known as Octinoxate and is one of the oldest and most widely used chemical UV filters in skincare.

It has a simple job: soap up UVB radiation (290-320 nm), the wavelengths responsible for sunburn and a big chunk of long-term sun damage.

In formulas, it's always paired with a separate UVA filter because octinoxate solely protects skin from UVB.

Because it's an oil-soluble liquid, it's easy to blend into the oil phase of lotions/creams and gives a cosmetically elegant feel.

The one quirk about formulating this ingredient is photostability; the molecule slowly changes shape into a less effective version when sunlight hits it. So the longer you're in the sun, the weaker its protection gets. The drop can be more than 30% in some formulas.

It also doesn't play nice with Avobenzone (the common UVA filter) since avobenzone destabilizes octinoxate and the two degrade each other. But don't worry: brands have solved this issue by adding photostabilizers like Tinosorb S to prevent degradation and keep SPF stable under heavy UV exposure.

The maximum allowed level is 10% in the EU and Australia, 7.5% in the US and Canada, and 20% in Japan.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe in cosmetics up to 10%.

One last thing worth knowing for context:

Octinoxate has been the subject of ongoing review in Europe where the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety's (SCCS) 2025 final opinion is that this ingredient is an endocrine-active substance.

Lab and animal studies suggest it can act a bit like a hormone in the body (mildly mimicking estrogen and slightly blocking male hormones). It's important to know this hasn't really been shown to happen in everyday human use.

This ingredient is also banned in Hawaii over coral reef concerns.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Octocrylene is an oil-soluble organic UV filter that mainly absorbs UVB and short wave UVA II light.

Its real superpower is teamwork: octocrylene is remarkably photostable and is most famous for stabilizing avobenzone (the workhorse UVA filter).

This ingredient is commonly used to enhance both UVB and UVA protection due to its unique property in stabilizing avobenzone. It also pulls double duty by boosting water resistance and giving formulas a smooth, spreadable feel.

The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has deemed octocrylene to be safe as a UV-filter at concentrations up to 10% (capped at 9% in propellant sprays). The US also permits it up to 10%.

Two things worth knowing:

You'll usually see this ingredient used in concentrations between 2-10% (higher amounts when used as a stabilizer for avobenzone).

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 2%
  2. 02Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 7.5%
  3. 03Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%
  4. 04Octocrylene 2%
  5. 05Water
  6. 06Glycerin
  7. 07Silica
  8. 08Dimethicone
  9. 09Tocopherol
  10. 10Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
  11. 11Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract
  12. 12Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
  13. 13Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract
  14. 14Peucedanum Graveolens Extract
  15. 15Sambucus Nigra Fruit Extract
  16. 16Avena Sativa Bran Extract
  17. 17Punica Granatum Extract
  18. 18Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract
  19. 19Hydrogenated Lecithin
  20. 20Titanium Dioxide
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Paula's Choice BHA 9 Treatment

Paula's Choice BHA 9 Treatment Paula's Choice BHA 9 Treatment ingredients explained: Propylene Glycol⁠, PEG-75 Stearate⁠, PEG-8⁠, Water⁠, Salicylic Acid⁠, Glycerin⁠, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kern…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side