Skin science article
Paula's Choice Retinol Skin-Smoothing Body Treatment Versus Bio-Oil Body Lotion
Paula's Choice Retinol Skin-Smoothing Body Treatment Versus Bio-Oil Body Lotion This smoothing moisturizer is formulated around Retinol and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to refine skin texture and soften the look of wrinkles. What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits
Paula's Choice Retinol Skin-Smoothing Body Treatment Versus Bio-Oil Body Lotion
This smoothing moisturizer is formulated around Retinol and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to refine skin texture and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Cetearyl Alcohol
Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate
Cyclopentasiloxane
Dimethicone
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
Cetyl Palmitate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Cetyl Alcohol
Retinol
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Panthenol
Carnosine
Dimethiconol
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Beeswax
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Sodium Hydroxide
Xanthan Gum
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Decylene Glycol
Disodium EDTA
Chlorphenesin
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Palmitate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Cetyl Alcohol, Retinol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Panthenol, Carnosine, Dimethiconol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Beeswax, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Sodium Hydroxide, Xanthan Gum, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Decylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol
Isopropyl Palmitate
Ethylhexyl Cocoate
Isododecane
Isopropyl Myristate
Urea
Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate
Pentylene Glycol
Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
Sodium Lactate
Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate
Gluconolactone
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Calendula Officinalis Extract
Butyrospermum Parkii Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Glycine Soja Oil
Isostearyl Isostearate
Bisabolol
Octyldodecyl PCA
Retinyl Palmitate
Linoleic Acid
Linolenic Acid
Tocopherol
Sodium PCA
Sodium Hyaluronate
Lactic Acid
Stearalkonium Hectorite
Propylene Carbonate
Water, Dimethicone, Isopropyl Palmitate, Ethylhexyl Cocoate, Isododecane, Isopropyl Myristate, Urea, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Sodium Lactate, Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate, Gluconolactone, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Calendula Officinalis Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Glycine Soja Oil, Isostearyl Isostearate, Bisabolol, Octyldodecyl PCA, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Tocopherol, Sodium PCA, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lactic Acid, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Dicaprylyl Carbonate comes from carbonic acid and caprylyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol. It is an emollient and gives skin a velvet feel. The sources of Dicaprylyl Carbonate may be synthetic or from animals.
As an emollient, Dicaprylyl Carbonate creates a film on the skin. This film traps moisture in, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!