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Skin science article

Paula's Choice Skin Balancing Invisible Finish Moisture Gel Versus Bubble Level Up Balancing Moisturizer

Paula's Choice Skin Balancing Invisible Finish Moisture Gel Versus Bubble Level Up Balancing Moisturizer This pore-care moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Avena Sativa Kernel Extract to refine the look of pores and calm redness. This oil-control

Paula's Choice Skin Balancing Invisible Finish Moisture Gel Versus Bubble Level Up Balancing Moisturizer

This pore-care moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Avena Sativa Kernel Extract to refine the look of pores and calm redness.

This oil-control day moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Zinc PCA to balance excess oil and refine the look of pores.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Cyclopentasiloxane

Butylene Glycol

Glycerin

Bis-Phenylpropyl Dimethicone

Niacinamide

Laminaria Saccharina Extract

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract

Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract

Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil

Tocopheryl Acetate

Phenyl Trimethicone

Dimethicone

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Phospholipids

Superoxide Dismutase

Isohexadecane

Panthenol

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Sodium Carbomer

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Polysorbate 80

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Ethylhexylglycerin

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Bis-Phenylpropyl Dimethicone, Niacinamide, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Phenyl Trimethicone, Dimethicone, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phospholipids, Superoxide Dismutase, Isohexadecane, Panthenol, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Carbomer, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Polysorbate 80, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil

Oleyl Erucate

Zinc PCA

Hydrolyzed Pea Protein

Glucose

Sodium Chloride

Sodium Succinate

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Oenothera Biennis Oil

Squalane

Achillea Millefolium Flower Extract

Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate

Sodium Phytate

Sodium Hydroxide

Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil, Oleyl Erucate, Niacinamide, Zinc PCA, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, Glucose, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Succinate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Squalane, Achillea Millefolium Flower Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Phytate, Sodium Hydroxide

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Paula's Choice Resist Triple-Action Dark Spot Eraser 7% Aha LotionIngredients explained

  1. 01We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
  2. 02Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product.
  3. 03It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water.
  4. 04Expand to read more
  5. 05Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) is drying.
  6. 06One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). Like this, the products can stay more stable over time.
  7. 07It’s the most researched AHA with the most proven skin benefits
  8. 08It gently lifts off dead skin cells to reveal newer, fresher, smoother skin
  9. 09It can help skin’s own collagen production that results in firmer, younger skin
  10. 10It can fade brown spots caused by sun damage or PIH
  11. 11Choose a product where you know the concentration and pH value because these two greatly influence effectiveness
  12. 12Don’t forget to use your sunscreen (in any case but especially so next to an AHA product)
  13. 13Slight stinging or burning with a stronger AHA product is normal
  14. 14If your skin is very sensitive, rosacea prone choose rather a BHA or PHA product
  15. 15A nice odorless liquid used mainly as a superior solubilizer and efficacy booster for cosmetic active ingredients such as skincare bigshot vitamin C, self-tanning active DHA or the anti-acne gold standard, benzoyl peroxide.
  16. 16Other than that it can also be used in hair care products where it gives a longer-lasting and more uniform coloring. According to a manufacturer, it might even prevent the formation of split ends.
  17. 17A super common, waxy, white, solid stuff that helps water and oil to mix together, gives body to creams and leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth.
  18. 18Chemically speaking, it is the attachment of a glycerin molecule to the fatty acid called stearic acid. It can be produced from most vegetable oils (in oils three fatty acid molecules are attached to glycerin instead of just one like here) in a pret…
  19. 19It also occurs naturally in our body and is used as a food additive. As cosmetic chemist Colins writes it, "its safety really is beyond any doubt".
  20. 20An extremely common multitasker ingredient that gives your skin a nice soft feel (emollient) and gives body to creams and lotions. It also helps to stabilize oil-water mixes (emulsions), though it does not function as an emulsifier in itself. Its ty…
Source · incidecoder.com
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Product index

Related product references

Product

Paula's Choice Perfect Cleansing Oil

Paula's Choice Perfect Cleansing Oil Paula's Choice Perfect Cleansing Oil ingredients explained: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (Skin-Replenishing), Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil (No…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

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