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Paula's Choice Skin Balancing Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum Versus Paula's Choice Skin Recovery Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum with Retinol

Paula's Choice Skin Balancing Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum Versus Paula's Choice Skin Recovery Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum with Retinol This anti-aging serum is formulated around Retinol and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to soften the look of wrinkl

Paula's Choice Skin Balancing Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum Versus Paula's Choice Skin Recovery Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum with Retinol

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Retinol and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Tocopherol and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Cyclopentasiloxane

Isododecane

Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate

Cyclohexasiloxane

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Tocopheryl Acetate

Retinyl Palmitate

Retinol

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Astaxanthin

Bisabolol

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Salix Alba Bark Extract

Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract

Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract

Calluna Vulgaris Flower Extract

Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract

Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract

Betula Alba Bark Extract

Glycine Soja Oil

Silica

Phenoxyethanol

Cyclopentasiloxane, Isododecane, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Cyclohexasiloxane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Retinol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Astaxanthin, Bisabolol, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Calluna Vulgaris Flower Extract, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Betula Alba Bark Extract, Glycine Soja Oil, Silica, Phenoxyethanol

Dimethicone

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Tocopherol

Tocotrienols

Adenosine

Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane

Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane

Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane

Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil

Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi Leaf Extract

Stearyl Dimethicone

Oenothera Biennis Oil

Vaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Oil

Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil

Vaccinium Myrtillus Seed Oil

Elaeis Guineensis Oil

Sd Alcohol 40

Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Tocopherol, Retinol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Bisabolol, Tocotrienols, Adenosine, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi Leaf Extract, Stearyl Dimethicone, Astaxanthin, Glycine Soja Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Oil, Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil, Vaccinium Myrtillus Seed Oil, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Sd Alcohol 40

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Astaxanthin is a carotene pigment and red pigment. It is a promising antioxidant with a ton of skin benefits.

This antioxidant has great anti-aging benefits by blocking the following:

Astaxanthin is also great at soothing skin due to its ability to block molecules that signal inflammation. It is currently being studied for preventing chronic inflammatory diseases.

Plus, a study from 2012 found Astaxanthin in liposomes protected mouse skin from UV-damage.

Fun fact: Astaxanthin is responsible for giving salmon a pink color.

Bisabolol is a gentle skin conditioner, antioxidant, and soothing ingredient.

It's primary claim to fame is soothing and research shows topically applied bisabolol can quiet the chemical messengers that cause your skin to become inflamed, helping to sooth any irritation.

A clinical study found that applying 0.5% bisabolol daily for 8 weeks produced an average 9% decrease in skin pigmentation. Researchers found it can also suppress the process that leads to excess melanin production in skin.

In vitro studies found that bisabolol combined with propylene glycol significantly increased skin permeability by increasing lipid fluidity in the stratum corneum.

You'll likely see use concentrations quite low, usually 0.1-0.2%.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated ingredient that works well in formulas designed for sensitive, reactive, or post-procedure skin.

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract comes from the Chamomile flower.

Chamomile is rich in antioxidants and has anti-inflammatory properties. Several compounds found in chamomile help with soothing, such as bisbolol.

Antioxidant components in chamomile make it an effective ingredient to help slow the signs of aging. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules, or molecules that may damage your skin.

Essential oils from chamomile have been found to improve wound healing due to its antimicrobial properties.

Ancient Greeks and Egyptians used Chamomile to treat skin redness and dryness. Chamomile has also been used to help treat stomach issues.

Cyclopentasiloxane (D5) is a lightweight silicone that mostly acts as an emollient and solvent in cosmetics. Its the reason your products feel silky, fast-spreading, and non-greasy.

Since D5 is volatile, it does its thing and then evaporates off the skin quickly.

The safety profile of this ingredient is reassuring; the US CIR Expert Panel concluded D5 is safe as used in cosmetics and Health Canada concluded that D5 is not harmful to human health or the environment as currently used in cosmetics

There's a study that people mention about D5 in a rat study showing tumors. This study is related to long-term inhalation of high D5 levels.

Regulatory bodies have judged this study to be not applicable in topical skincare since skin absorption of D5 is very low and we're not really inhaling huge amounts of D5.

The only restriction for this ingredient is environmental. The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) restricted D5 in wash-off cosmetics at or above 0.1% due to their persistence in water.

Glycine Soja Oil is a plant-derived oil from soybean seeds. Like other oils, it is rich in essential fatty acids (mostly linoleic and oleic) that support skin hydration and barrier function.

The fatty acids are able to integrate into the lipid matrix of the stratum corneum to help soften skin and reduce water loss.

On top of that, soybean oil is rich in vitamins like vitamin E, a potent antioxidant.

Research on soybean's active components also point to anti-inflammatory, collagen-stimulating, antioxidant activity, and protection against UV-induced oxidative damage.

Most of this research applies to the broader soybean plant and not just the oil fraction alone.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe due to the oleic acid content.

Retinol is one of the most studied anti-aging ingredients in skincare (and for good reason!).

It's a form of vitamin A that your skin converts into Retinoic Acid, the active molecule that actually does the work in your cells.

That conversion happens in two steps: your skin first turns Retinol into Retinaldehyde (also called Retinal), then turns Retinaldehyde into Retinoic Acid.

Retinol is converted to biologically active retinoic acid via retinaldehyde by dehydrogenases in a two-step oxidation process.

Each step is a little "upgrade" toward the active form which is part of why Retinol is gentler than prescription Retinoic Acid; your skin does the work gradually. This also explains where Retinol sits in the retinoid family.

Here is the retinoid family ranked roughly by strength: Retinyl Esters (like Retinyl Palmitate) < Retinol < Retinaldehyde < Retinoic Acid.

Retinoid activity increases in that order, while tolerance runs in reverse; retinyl esters are the gentlest and retinoic acid the most irritating.

The more conversion steps an ingredient needs, the gentler (and slower) it tends to be, so Retinol lands in a nice middle spot. It's more effective than the esters, gentler than prescription options.

Once it becomes Retinoic Acid, it binds to receptors inside your cells' nuclei (called RARs and RXRs). These receptor pairs bind to specific DNA motifs called retinoic acid response elements and act like switches that turn certain genes on or off.

In practice, this means a few things happen in a formula. It:

That last two are worth a closer look.

A study that tested Retinol directly (not just prescription Retinoic Acid) found that four weeks of retinol thickened the epidermis and switched on the genes for Collagen I and Collagen III, with more procollagen I and III showing up in the skin. And after twelve weeks, facial wrinkles were visibly reduced.

Retinoids more broadly stimulate the skin's synthesis of hyaluronan and other glycosaminoglycans, part of what gives skin a plumper, more hydrated look over time.

So even the gentler OTC form is doing real structural work (not just sitting on the surface).

It's also worth knowing Retinol isn't only a wrinkle ingredient; it can help with uneven tone, dark spots, rough texture, and the look of pores as well because it speeds up turnover and influences pigment.

The research backs this up as well.

A pooled analysis of six clinical studies found that 0.1% stabilized retinol improved all signs of photoaging versus vehicle as early as week 4 and through 12 weeks, with only a few mild cases of irritation.

Another study comparing concentrations found that 0.3% and 1% Retinol were similarly effective at remodeling photodamaged skin, but 0.3% caused fewer adverse reactions when used daily (a useful reminder that more isn't always better).

Retinol is about tenfold less potent than Retinoic Acid. This is why it works as a gentler, non-prescription option that builds results over time.

Typical concentrations range from 0.1-1%, with 0.1% to 0.3% being a well-supported sweet spot for visible benefits with good tolerability.

One quirk worth mentioning: Retinol is famously unstable.

It's highly sensitive to light and oxygen, and UV exposure breaks it down into a range of degradation products.

Real-world testing bears this out, with retinoid content in some products dropping anywhere from 0% to 80% after six months at room temperature, and even more at higher temperatures.

This is why good formulations lean on opaque, air-tight packaging (think tubes and pumps, not clear jars) and often "encapsulate" the Retinol to shield it.

Signs of oxidation include your product turning yellow or smelling "off". Keeping it somewhere cool and dark, and using it up within a few months of opening helps it stay effective.

The most common side effects are mild and temporary: usually some dryness, redness, or light peeling as your skin adjusts. These tend to settle with consistent and lower-frequency use.

Like all retinoids, Retinol works best with nightly use, a good moisturizer, and daytime sunscreen.

The "ramp up" method works well: start with Retinol once a week to give your skin time to adjust, which keeps irritation low. Slowly add more nights until you reach your goal frequency once your skin feels comfortable.

Retinoids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun in the first few weeks, so wear sunscreen every morning and protect your skin from direct sun while you build up tolerance.

One safety note: topical Retinoids aren't recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Systemic absorption from creams is low but because high oral vitamin A is a known teratogen and topical safety data are limited, most clinicians recommend stopping retinoids when pregnant or trying to conceive.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD) is a stable and oil-soluble form of Vitamin C.

THD is special in that it has the ability to travel deeper into skin than traditional ascorbic acid while maintaining the same skin benefits (double win!).

Because it’s oil-soluble, THD dives deep into your skin’s fatty layers (think ceramides and cholesterol) to fight off the kind of free radicals that mess with your skin barrier. This makes it a great pair with water-based vitamin C (ascorbic acid) that mainly works on the surface.

Even at just 0.1%, THD is already showing great antioxidant activity. When used up to 2%, it helps keep your skin happy and calm, especially when it’s stressed from pollution or sun.

Want to fade dark spots or tackle hyperpigmentation? You’ll want 5% or more. Pairing it with brightening buddies like niacinamide or licorice root gives even better results. One study even used 30% THD with other brighteners and saw real results on stubborn discoloration, even in melasma-prone skin.

A note on THD: It’s has a slightly silky, oily texture and usually shows up colorless or pale yellow (though the exact shade can vary by supplier).

While you can sneak it into water-based formulas, it really shines when paired with silicones or oils, which help your skin soak it up better.

THD is pretty stable, but it’s still vulnerable to degradation like ascorbic acid. Too much light or heat (above 113°F / 45°C) can break it down over time. Go for dark and opaque packaging that keeps it safe and shady!

Read more about other types of Vitamin C:

Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract comes from the grape vine. Grape seeds are a byproduct of creating grape juice or wine.

The components of grape seeds have many skin benefits. Research has found it to be antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory. It also contains many potent antioxidants such as Vitamin E , Vitamin C, proanthocyanidins, polyphenols, flavonoids, and anthocyanins. Proanthocyanidin has been shown to help even out skin tone.

Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Antioxidants help stabilize free-radicals by donating extra electrons. Grape seed extract may help reduce the signs of aging.

The antimicrobial properties of grape seed may help treat acne. However, more research is needed to support this claim.

Grape seed has also been found to help absorb UV rays. Grape seed extract should not replace your sunscreen.

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The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
  3. 03Dimethicone
  4. 04Glycerin
  5. 05C9-12 Alkane
  6. 06Ascorbyl Glucoside
  7. 07Silica
  8. 08Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
  9. 09Hydrogenated Lecithin
  10. 10Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate
  11. 11Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
  12. 12Xanthan Gum
  13. 13Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
  14. 14Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
  15. 15Cetyl Alcohol
  16. 16Caprylyl Glycol
  17. 17Lysine Carboxymethyl Cysteinate
  18. 18Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
  19. 19Tocopherol
  20. 20Glutathione
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side