Skin science article
Paula's Choice Skin Balancing Ultra-Sheer Daily Defense Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Versus Paula's Choice Resist Super-Light Wrinkle Defense SPF 30
Paula's Choice Skin Balancing Ultra-Sheer Daily Defense Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Versus Paula's Choice Resist Super-Light Wrinkle Defense SPF 30 This oil-control day moisturizer is formulated around Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate and Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extr
Paula's Choice Skin Balancing Ultra-Sheer Daily Defense Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Versus Paula's Choice Resist Super-Light Wrinkle Defense SPF 30
This oil-control day moisturizer is formulated around Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate and Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract to balance excess oil and soften the look of wrinkles.
This mineral sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~97% of UVB at SPF 30.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Homosalate
Butylene Glycol
Benzophenone-3
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
Silica
Octocrylene
Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
Cetyl Dimethicone
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Phospholipids
Superoxide Dismutase
Adenosine
Tocopherol
Bisabolol
Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Panthenol
Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract
Salix Alba Bark Extract
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Titanium Dioxide
Sodium Hydroxide
Steareth-21
Steareth-2
Polysorbate 20
Disodium EDTA
Phenoxyethanol
Sorbic Acid
Water, Homosalate, Butylene Glycol, Benzophenone-3, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Silica, Octocrylene, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Cetyl Dimethicone, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Phospholipids, Superoxide Dismutase, Adenosine, Tocopherol, Bisabolol, Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Panthenol, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Titanium Dioxide, Sodium Hydroxide, Steareth-21, Steareth-2, Polysorbate 20, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbic Acid
Cyclopentasiloxane
Zinc Oxide
PEG-12 Dimethicone
PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone
Lauroyl Lysine
Sodium Chloride
Trihydroxystearin
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Resveratrol
Quercetin
Epigallocatechin Gallate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Salix Nigra Bark Extract
Punica Granatum Extract
Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract
Hydrolyzed Corn Starch
Polysorbate 80
Hydrated Silica
Triethoxycaprylylsilane
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate
Caprylyl Glycol
Hexylene Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Iron Oxides
Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Zinc Oxide, PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Lauroyl Lysine, Sodium Chloride, Trihydroxystearin, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Resveratrol, Quercetin, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Adenosine, Bisabolol, Salix Nigra Bark Extract, Punica Granatum Extract, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Polysorbate 80, Hydrated Silica, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Iron Oxides, Phenoxyethanol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Bisabolol is a gentle skin conditioner, antioxidant, and soothing ingredient.
It's primary claim to fame is soothing and research shows topically applied bisabolol can quiet the chemical messengers that cause your skin to become inflamed, helping to sooth any irritation.
A clinical study found that applying 0.5% bisabolol daily for 8 weeks produced an average 9% decrease in skin pigmentation. Researchers found it can also suppress the process that leads to excess melanin production in skin.
In vitro studies found that bisabolol combined with propylene glycol significantly increased skin permeability by increasing lipid fluidity in the stratum corneum.
You'll likely see use concentrations quite low, usually 0.1-0.2%.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated ingredient that works well in formulas designed for sensitive, reactive, or post-procedure skin.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!