Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 25% AHA + 2% BHA Exfoliant Peel Versus Elemis Papaya Enzyme Peel

Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 25% AHA + 2% BHA Exfoliant Peel Versus Elemis Papaya Enzyme Peel

This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.

This wash off mask is made with Niacinamide and Papain for a rinse-off smoothing boost.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Aminomethyl Propanol

Glycolic Acid

Lactic Acid

Mandelic Acid

Isoamyl Laurate

Tartaric Acid

Propanediol

Salicylic Acid

Malic Acid

Butylene Glycol

Clitoria Ternatea Flower Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Glycyrrhetinic Acid

Glycerin

Tocopherol

Bisabolol

Allantoin

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Xanthan Gum

Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Titanium Dioxide

Mica

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Aminomethyl Propanol, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Isoamyl Laurate, Tartaric Acid, Propanediol, Salicylic Acid, Malic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Clitoria Ternatea Flower Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Glycerin, Tocopherol, Bisabolol, Allantoin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Titanium Dioxide, Mica, Phenoxyethanol

Propylene Glycol

Octyldodecanol

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Cetearyl Alcohol

C12-16 Alcohols

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Niacinamide

Palmitic Acid

Parfum

Papain

Chlorphenesin

Lactis Proteinum

Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract

Sodium Dehydroacetate

Disodium EDTA

Porphyridium Cruentum Extract

Cinnamyl Alcohol

Fucus Vesiculosus Extract

Capsicum Annuum Fruit Extract

Citronellol

Geraniol

Limonene

Citral

Mentha Arvensis Leaf Oil

Cuminum Cyminum Seed Oil

Water, Propylene Glycol, Octyldodecanol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, C12-16 Alcohols, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Niacinamide, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Palmitic Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Parfum, Papain, Chlorphenesin, Lactis Proteinum, Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Disodium EDTA, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Cinnamyl Alcohol, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Capsicum Annuum Fruit Extract, Tocopherol, Citronellol, Geraniol, Limonene, Citral, Mentha Arvensis Leaf Oil, Cuminum Cyminum Seed Oil

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Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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