Skin science article
Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 25% AHA + 2% BHA Exfoliant Peel Versus Glow Recipe Strawberry BHA Pore-Smooth Blur Drops
Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 25% AHA + 2% BHA Exfoliant Peel Versus Glow Recipe Strawberry BHA Pore-Smooth Blur Drops This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin. This oil
Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 25% AHA + 2% BHA Exfoliant Peel Versus Glow Recipe Strawberry BHA Pore-Smooth Blur Drops
This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.
This oil-control treatment is formulated around Salicylic Acid and Salix Alba Bark Extract to balance excess oil and refine the look of pores.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Aminomethyl Propanol
Glycolic Acid
Lactic Acid
Mandelic Acid
Isoamyl Laurate
Tartaric Acid
Propanediol
Salicylic Acid
Malic Acid
Butylene Glycol
Clitoria Ternatea Flower Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Glycyrrhetinic Acid
Glycerin
Tocopherol
Bisabolol
Allantoin
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Xanthan Gum
Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Titanium Dioxide
Mica
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Aminomethyl Propanol, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Isoamyl Laurate, Tartaric Acid, Propanediol, Salicylic Acid, Malic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Clitoria Ternatea Flower Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Glycerin, Tocopherol, Bisabolol, Allantoin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Titanium Dioxide, Mica, Phenoxyethanol
Tapioca Starch
Isopentyldiol
Nylon-12
C9-12 Alkane
Distarch Phosphate
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Saccharide Isomerate
Fragaria Vesca Leaf Extract
Salix Alba Bark Extract
Fragaria Vesca Fruit Extract
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Triheptanoin
Pentylene Glycol
Caprylyl Glycol
Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate
Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer
Polyglyceryl-10 Dipalmitate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Hydroxide
1,2-Hexanediol
Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer
Citric Acid
Parfum
Water, Tapioca Starch, Isopentyldiol, Nylon-12, C9-12 Alkane, Distarch Phosphate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Saccharide Isomerate, Fragaria Vesca Leaf Extract, Salicylic Acid, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Fragaria Vesca Fruit Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Bisabolol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Triheptanoin, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Propanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-10 Dipalmitate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Citric Acid, Parfum
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Bisabolol is a gentle skin conditioner, antioxidant, and soothing ingredient.
It's primary claim to fame is soothing and research shows topically applied bisabolol can quiet the chemical messengers that cause your skin to become inflamed, helping to sooth any irritation.
A clinical study found that applying 0.5% bisabolol daily for 8 weeks produced an average 9% decrease in skin pigmentation. Researchers found it can also suppress the process that leads to excess melanin production in skin.
In vitro studies found that bisabolol combined with propylene glycol significantly increased skin permeability by increasing lipid fluidity in the stratum corneum.
You'll likely see use concentrations quite low, usually 0.1-0.2%.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated ingredient that works well in formulas designed for sensitive, reactive, or post-procedure skin.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Salicylic Acid (also known as beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a well-known ingredient for treating skin that struggles with acne and clogged pores. It exfoliates both the skin's surface and deep within the pores to help clear out buildup, control oil, and reduce inflammation.
Unlike AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble. This allows it to penetrate into pores which makes it especially effective for treating blackheads and preventing future breakouts.
Salicylic acid is also known for its soothing properties. It has a similar structure to aspirin and can calm inflamed or irritated skin, making it a good option for acne-prone skin that is also sensitive.
Concentrations of 0.5-2% are recognized by the U.S. FDA as an over-the-counter topical acne product.
It can cause irritation and/or dryness if one's skin already has a compromised moisture barrier, so it's best to focus on repairing that before introducing this ingredient into your routine.
While salicylic acid does not increase sun sensitivity, it’s still important to wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin.
If you are looking for the ingredient called BHA or Butylated Hydroxyanisole, click here.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!