Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 25% AHA + 2% BHA Exfoliant Peel Versus The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Masque

Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 25% AHA + 2% BHA Exfoliant Peel Versus The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Masque This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin. This wash off mask i

Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 25% AHA + 2% BHA Exfoliant Peel Versus The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Masque

This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.

This wash off mask is formulated around Salicylic Acid to clear breakouts and unclog pores.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Aminomethyl Propanol

Glycolic Acid

Lactic Acid

Mandelic Acid

Isoamyl Laurate

Tartaric Acid

Propanediol

Salicylic Acid

Malic Acid

Butylene Glycol

Clitoria Ternatea Flower Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Glycyrrhetinic Acid

Glycerin

Tocopherol

Bisabolol

Allantoin

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Xanthan Gum

Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Titanium Dioxide

Mica

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Aminomethyl Propanol, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Isoamyl Laurate, Tartaric Acid, Propanediol, Salicylic Acid, Malic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Clitoria Ternatea Flower Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Glycerin, Tocopherol, Bisabolol, Allantoin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Titanium Dioxide, Mica, Phenoxyethanol

Kaolin

Squalane

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Silica Cetyl Silylate

Sodium Polyacrylate

Pentylene Glycol

Charcoal Powder

4-T-Butylcyclohexanol

Sclerotium Gum

Acacia Senegal Gum

Phytic Acid

Polysorbate 20

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Chlorphenesin

Water, Kaolin, Squalane, Glycerin, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Silica Cetyl Silylate, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Polyacrylate, Pentylene Glycol, Charcoal Powder, 4-T-Butylcyclohexanol, Sclerotium Gum, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum, Phytic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Salicylic Acid (also known as beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a well-known ingredient for treating skin that struggles with acne and clogged pores. It exfoliates both the skin's surface and deep within the pores to help clear out buildup, control oil, and reduce inflammation.

Unlike AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble. This allows it to penetrate into pores which makes it especially effective for treating blackheads and preventing future breakouts.

Salicylic acid is also known for its soothing properties. It has a similar structure to aspirin and can calm inflamed or irritated skin, making it a good option for acne-prone skin that is also sensitive.

Concentrations of 0.5-2% are recognized by the U.S. FDA as an over-the-counter topical acne product.

It can cause irritation and/or dryness if one's skin already has a compromised moisture barrier, so it's best to focus on repairing that before introducing this ingredient into your routine.

While salicylic acid does not increase sun sensitivity, it’s still important to wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin.

If you are looking for the ingredient called BHA or Butylated Hydroxyanisole, click here.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Butylene Glycol
  3. 03Glycerin
  4. 04Dimethicone
  5. 05Niacinamide
  6. 06Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
  7. 07Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
  8. 08Carrageenan
  9. 09Arbutin
  10. 10Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
  11. 11Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
  12. 12Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract
  13. 13Allantoin
  14. 14Isohexadecane
  15. 15Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil
  16. 16Salix Alba Bark Extract
  17. 17Hydrogenated Lecithin
  18. 18Polysorbate 60
  19. 19Citric Acid
  20. 20Xanthan Gum
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side