Skin science article
Paula's Choice Skin Recovery Softening Cream Cleanser Versus Paula's Choice Resist Optimal Results Hydrating Cleanser
Paula's Choice Skin Recovery Softening Cream Cleanser Versus Paula's Choice Resist Optimal Results Hydrating Cleanser This mild cream cleanser is made to cleanse without leaving your skin tight or dry. What's inside Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side-by-side W
Paula's Choice Skin Recovery Softening Cream Cleanser Versus Paula's Choice Resist Optimal Results Hydrating Cleanser
This mild cream cleanser is made to cleanse without leaving your skin tight or dry.
What's inside
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Hydrogenated Polydecene
Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate
Glycine Soja Oil
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Polysorbate 80
Laureth-4
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Beta-Glucan
Paraffinum Liquidum
PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
Butylene Glycol
Disodium EDTA
Sodium Hydroxide
Hexylene Glycol
Caprylyl Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Phenoxyethanol
Chlorphenesin
Water, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Glycine Soja Oil, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Polysorbate 80, Laureth-4, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Beta-Glucan, Paraffinum Liquidum, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Butylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, Hexylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Decyl Glucoside
Glycerin
PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether
Methyl Gluceth-20
Glyceryl Stearate
Stearyl Alcohol
Polyacrylamide
Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil
Sapindus Mukorossi Peel Extract
Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
C13-14 Isoparaffin
Laureth-7
Xanthan Gum
Citric Acid
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Decyl Glucoside, Glycerin, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether, Methyl Gluceth-20, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, Polyacrylamide, Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Sapindus Mukorossi Peel Extract, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth-7, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract comes from the Chamomile flower.
Chamomile is rich in antioxidants and has anti-inflammatory properties. Several compounds found in chamomile help with soothing, such as bisbolol.
Antioxidant components in chamomile make it an effective ingredient to help slow the signs of aging. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules, or molecules that may damage your skin.
Essential oils from chamomile have been found to improve wound healing due to its antimicrobial properties.
Ancient Greeks and Egyptians used Chamomile to treat skin redness and dryness. Chamomile has also been used to help treat stomach issues.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Hexylene Glycol is a multitasker ingredient that works as a solvent, humectant, emulsifier, viscosity reducer, and preservative booster.
It is able to dissolve both water and oil-soluble ingredients to stabilize tricky actives and make products spread more easily.
As a humectant, it pulls water into the skin. But it's a pretty minor moisturizing ingredient compared to other humectants, like glycerin.
Interestingly, it can act as a mild penetration enhancer. One in vitro study on human skin found a 12% concentration upped the absorption of mometasone furoate (a medicinal ingredient used to treat inflammatory skin conditions) up to 7%.
This ingredient is typically used at levels of 0.1-10% depending on the role it's playing.
A patch test study on eczema patients didn't find a significant increase in irritation versus the control group, but the potential for irritation rises at higher concentrations.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!