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Paula's Choice Skin Revealing Body Lotion 10% AHA Versus iNNBEAUTY PROJECT Bright & Smooth Body Serum

Paula's Choice Skin Revealing Body Lotion 10% AHA Versus iNNBEAUTY PROJECT Bright & Smooth Body Serum What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side-by-side Water Glycolic Acid Cyclopentasiloxane Dimethicone Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate Stearic

Paula's Choice Skin Revealing Body Lotion 10% AHA Versus iNNBEAUTY PROJECT Bright & Smooth Body Serum

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycolic Acid

Cyclopentasiloxane

Dimethicone

Glycerin

Glyceryl Stearate

Stearic Acid

Cetyl Alcohol

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Sodium Hydroxide

PEG-100 Stearate

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil

Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract

Epilobium Angustifolium Extract

Allantoin

Butylene Glycol

Xanthan Gum

Disodium EDTA

Sodium Benzoate

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Glycolic Acid, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Sodium Hydroxide, PEG-100 Stearate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Extract, Allantoin, Butylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Niacinamide

Lactic Acid

Cetearyl Alcohol

Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters

Arginine

Tranexamic Acid

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Cetyl Esters

Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil

Kojic Acid

Salix Alba Bark Extract

Papain

Alpha-Arbutin

Mandelic Acid

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Ximenia Americana Seed Oil

Sodium PCA

Zinc PCA

Glucose

Sucrose

Polysilicone-11

Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Citric Acid

Water, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Dimethicone, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glycolic Acid, Niacinamide, Lactic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Arginine, Allantoin, Tranexamic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Glycerin, Cetyl Esters, Glyceryl Stearate, Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil, Kojic Acid, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Papain, Alpha-Arbutin, Mandelic Acid, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Ximenia Americana Seed Oil, Sodium PCA, Zinc PCA, Glucose, Sucrose, Polysilicone-11, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Xanthan Gum, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Citric Acid

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.

Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.

Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.

It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.

Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.

This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.

Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.

Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Glycolic Acid is arguably the most famous alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) with tons of research backing its benefits.

It is found naturally in sugar cane but the form used in skincare is usually synthetic for purity and stability.

Glycolic acid removes the top layer of dead skin cells to allow newer and fresher ones to emerge.

AHAs work by breaking down the structural “glue” that holds old skin cells in place. When that buildup is gone, your skin can renew itself more efficiently.

Research also shows glycolic acid stimulates collagen production, helping to firm and thicken the skin over time. This is one of its biggest advantages over other AHAs.

Overall, glycolic acid helps with:

Fun fact: Glycolic acid boosts skin hydration by helping it produce molecules that increase hyaluronic acid naturally.

To work best, glycolic acid products should have a pH between 3-4 (that’s where exfoliation is most effective but still gentle on skin).

The pH and concentration of a product are key to its effectiveness:

It is normal to feel a slight stinging sensation when using glycolic acid. This usually fades as your skin adjusts.

Because glycolic acid has the smallest molecular size in the AHA family, it can penetrate deeper, which enhances its effectiveness but also makes it more likely to irritate sensitive skin.

If your skin is very sensitive or prone to rosacea, glycolic acid may be too strong; in that case, try milder options like lactic acid or a PHA instead.

Recent studies suggest glycolic acid might even help protect against UV damage. But don’t skip sunscreen! Freshly exfoliated skin is more sensitive to the sun.

Glycolic acid is a skincare superstar. It smooths, brightens, hydrates, and firms the skin. Unless you’re highly sensitive, it’s well worth adding to your routine.

Read more about some other popular AHA's here:

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Bakuchiol is a plant-derived antioxidant from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant. It has antimicrobial, emollient, skin conditioning, and antioxidant properties.
  4. 04You'll likely see it called a "retinol replacement" but the two are technically not related. This is because bakuchiol is able to flip many of the same switches in your skin cells to tell them to:
  5. 051) produce more collagen (type I, III, and IV) 2) activate the same genes retinoids do
  6. 06Unlike retinoids, this ingredient will not increase photosensitivity and is safe to use during pregnancy (but please still check in with your doctor!).
  7. 07The flagship clinical trial from Dhaliwal et al. 2019 found 0.5% bakuchiol (twice daily) and 0.5% retinol (once daily) reduced wrinkles and hyperpigmentation equally, but bakuchiol had significantly less irritation.
  8. 08Systematic reviews also back this up:
  9. 09Bakuchiol is comparable to retinol for photoaging but with better tolerability. It also has mild antibacterial properties against Cutibacterium acnes and antifungal activity in vitro against Candida and dermatophytes.
  10. 10The reason bakuchiol works well is due to its structure; it is a meroterpene phenol, or a hybrid molecule. The phenol half acts as an antioxidant while the terpene half is fat-loving. This helps the molecule slip through the skin barrier.
  11. 11This ingredient is usually used between 0.5-2%. Only one case of contact dermatitis has ever been reported for this ingredient.
  12. 12Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
  13. 13Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
  14. 14Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
  15. 15We don't have a description for Chrysin yet.
  16. 16Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
  17. 17What it does:
  18. 18Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
  19. 19Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
  20. 20Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
Source · skinsort.com
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Product index

Related product references

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Comparison edit

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