PCA Skin Pigment Gel Versus PCA Skin Pigment Bar

PCA Skin Pigment Gel Versus PCA Skin Pigment Bar

This brightening serum is formulated around Lactic Acid and Kojic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Alcohol Denat.

Hamamelis Virginiana Water

Lactic Acid

Butylene Glycol

Kojic Acid

Azelaic Acid

Alcohol

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Phenylethyl Resorcinol

BHT

Glutathione

Silybum Marianum Fruit Extract

Water, Alcohol Denat., Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Lactic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Kojic Acid, Azelaic Acid, Alcohol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Phenylethyl Resorcinol, BHT, Glutathione, Silybum Marianum Fruit Extract

Glycerin

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Elaeis Guineensis Kernel Oil

Ricinus Communis Seed Oil

Sodium Hydroxide

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

Sorbitan Oleate

Sorbitol

Glycine Soja Protein

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Calcium Ascorbate

Glucosamine Hcl

Maltose

Niacinamide

Sodium Lactate

Tannic Acid

Aniba Rosodora Wood Oil

Glycerin, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Elaeis Guineensis Kernel Oil, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Water, Sodium Hydroxide, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Sorbitan Oleate, Sorbitol, Azelaic Acid, Kojic Acid, Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Glycine Soja Protein, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Alcohol, Calcium Ascorbate, Glucosamine Hcl, Maltose, Niacinamide, Sodium Lactate, Tannic Acid, Aniba Rosodora Wood Oil

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

This ingredient is also called ethanol or ethyl alcohol. It is denatured, meaning made undrinkable for cosmetic use.

In formulas, it:

Is it bad for your skin?

The answer comes down to concentration. Patch and wash studies have found highly concentrated alcohol-based hand rubs (60-100%) cause less barrier disruption than washing with a basic detergent like SLS. The only measurable effect in these studies was a temporary dip in skin hydration.

Concentrations below 12-15% in leave-on cosmetics is generally well-tolerated. Concentrations above start to see increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and reduced hydration.

In concentrations about 58%, it creates temporary channels in your skin's lipid layers to become more permeable and allow other ingredients to slip through easily.

This ingredient can be up to 80% of the formula in alcohol-based perfumes.

Overall, this ingredient is probably harmless if found lower down an ingredients list but worth side-eyeing if it's high up (especially if your barrier is already struggling).

Alcohol can worsen dry skin, eczema, and oily skin, especially at higher concentrations. This is because it can increase transepidermal water loss and decrease hydration to disrupt the skin barrier.

According to the National Rosacea Society based in the US, you should be mindful of products with these alcohols in the top half of ingredients.

True allergic contact dermatitis to ethanol is uncommon, but be sure to patch test if you have dry or sensitive skin.

Azelaic acid is a multitasker ingredient that helps treat acne, pigmentation, and irritation. It is a great option for sensitive skin.

What makes it special?

OTC Azelaic acid is usually available in concentrations from 10-15% and anything over requires a prescription.

Here's what each tier does best:

Unlike other acids, azelaic acid will not make your skin more photosensitive/sun sensitive.

Though this ingredient is naturally occurring in grains like wheat, rye, and barley, it is usually synthetically created for cosmetics to ensure stability and effectiveness.

Hamamelis Virginiana Water is made by distilling parts of the witch hazel plant. You can also call this ingredient "witch hazel water".

The name 'Hamamelis Virginiana Water' refers to the distillation product used in cosmetics. On the other hand, 'Witch Hazel' refers to the active drug ingredient.

Unless it is specified to be non-alcohol, many types of witch hazel ingredients are distilled in denatured alcohol.

Witch Hazel water is an astringent, anti-inflammatory antioxidant, and antibacterial ingredient.

It contains tannins. Tannins have a drying effect when used on skin by constricting proteins. The constriction also minimizes the appearance of pores.

Both the tannins and fragrance found in witch hazel may be skin-sensitizing.

Witch hazel water gets anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties from its catechin and gallic acid content.

Indigenous groups have used witch hazel to help treat inflammation in North America for centuries.

Kojic Acid is a naturally occurring organic acid that is produced during the fermentation of certain fungi. It is one of the most well-studied brightening ingredients (tyrosinase inhibitors) out there.

That's why you'll see Kojic Acid in products that target dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and general uneven skin tone. It also pairs well with other brightening actives like Alpha Arbutin, Glycolic Acid, and Vitamin C derivatives.

By latching onto the copper that the enzyme tyrosinase needs to function, Kojic Acid prevents less pigment from being made. It's so well-established that researchers regularly use it as the go-to benchmark when testing new brightening ingredients.

Some other perks include documented antioxidant and antimicrobial properties. The The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) Expert Panel concluded Kojic Acid is safe for use in cosmetic products at concentrations up to 1% and the EU's SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety) considers it safe as a skin lightening agent at concentrations up to 0.7%.

One thing to know about Kojic Acid is that stability is its weak spot; it is sensitive to light, heat, and air exposure and will oxidize/turn brown in formulations. Its derivative, Kojic Dipalmitate, was developed as a stable alternative.

Some individuals have reported contact sensitization so be sure to patch test if you have reactive or sensitive skin.

Fun fact: It was first discovered in 1907 and naturally occurs in the production of sake, soy sauce, and miso.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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