Skin science article
PCA Skin Pro-Max Age Renewal Advanced Serum Versus Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare DermInfusions™ Fill + Repair Serum
PCA Skin Pro-Max Age Renewal Advanced Serum Versus Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare DermInfusions™ Fill + Repair Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Acetyl Octapeptide-3 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. This barrier
PCA Skin Pro-Max Age Renewal Advanced Serum Versus Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare DermInfusions™ Fill + Repair Serum
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Acetyl Octapeptide-3 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Ectoin to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Polysilicone-11
Propanediol
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate
Polysorbate 20
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Caprylyl Glycol
Sodium Benzoate
Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
Sodium Hyaluronate
Ethylene Brassylate
Pullulan
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Lactic Acid
Laureth-12
Carnosine
Tricholoma Matsutake Extract
Phenoxyethanol
Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Anigozanthos Flavidus Extract
Porphyridium Cruentum Extract
Pentylene Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Bacillus Ferment
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Acetyl Tripeptide-54 Amide
Acetyl Tripeptide-74 Amide
Palmitoyl Sh-Tripeptide-1 Amide
Palmitoyl Sh-Tripeptide-3 Amide
Ergothioneine
Water, Polysilicone-11, Propanediol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ethylene Brassylate, Pullulan, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Lactic Acid, Laureth-12, Carnosine, Tricholoma Matsutake Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Anigozanthos Flavidus Extract, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Bacillus Ferment, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Acetyl Tripeptide-54 Amide, Acetyl Tripeptide-74 Amide, Palmitoyl Sh-Tripeptide-1 Amide, Palmitoyl Sh-Tripeptide-3 Amide, Ergothioneine
Niacinamide
Ectoin
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Oligopeptide-2
Saccharide Isomerate
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract
Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan
Bakuchiol
Inonotus Obliquus Extract
Tetrahydrocurcumin
Ceramide NP
Ceramide AP
Ceramide EOP
Phospholipids
Sphingolipids
Phytosphingosine
Colloidal Oatmeal
Bisabolol
Superoxide Dismutase
Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
Sodium PCA
Glutathione
Squalane
Caffeine
Panthenol
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Arnica Montana Flower Extract
Acetyl Glutamine
Bifida Ferment Lysate
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Withania Somnifera Root Extract
Glycolic Acid
Mandelic Acid
Lactobionic Acid
Coco-Glucoside
Lauryl Glucoside
Decyl Glucoside
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Diheptyl Succinate
Dimethicone
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Pvm/Ma Decadiene Crosspolymer
Vp/Va Copolymer
Xanthan Gum
Potassium Hydroxide
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Carbomer
Cholesterol
Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Sodium Citrate
Citric Acid
Sodium Metasilicate
Gluconolactone
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Jasminum Officinale Flower/Leaf Extract
Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract
Eugenia Caryophyllus Flower Extract
Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Raspberry Ketone
Water, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol, Ectoin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Oligopeptide-2, Saccharide Isomerate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan, Bakuchiol, Inonotus Obliquus Extract, Tetrahydrocurcumin, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Phospholipids, Sphingolipids, Phytosphingosine, Colloidal Oatmeal, Bisabolol, Superoxide Dismutase, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Sodium PCA, Glutathione, Squalane, Caffeine, Panthenol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Acetyl Glutamine, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Withania Somnifera Root Extract, Glycolic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Lactobionic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Coco-Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Diheptyl Succinate, Dimethicone, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Pvm/Ma Decadiene Crosspolymer, Vp/Va Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Potassium Hydroxide, Polysorbate 20, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Carbomer, Cholesterol, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Sodium Metasilicate, Gluconolactone, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Jasminum Officinale Flower/Leaf Extract, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract, Eugenia Caryophyllus Flower Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Raspberry Ketone, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate is a type of Hyaluronic Acid.
Hyaluronic Acids help moisturize, soothe, and protect the skin.
Read about common types of Hyaluronic Acid here:
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer is a crosslinked version of sodium hyaluronate. This just means it's linked into a 3D mesh network that lets it be more stable and sit on skin as a cohesive, gel-like film rather than sinking into skin.
A 2016 human skin study found crosslinked HA increased epidermal water content by 7.6% over the control group and reduced transepidermal water loss by 27.8%.
A follow-up clinical trial found that a topical crosslinked HA serum applied after fillers, microneedling, or chemical peels was well-tolerated and enhanced skin quality at 14 / 28 days.
More recent research suggests that concentrations as low as 0.03% can act as a penetration enhancer for other skincare actives.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!