Skin science article
PCA Skin Pro-Max Age Renewal Advanced Serum Versus Neocutis Bio Serum Firm
PCA Skin Pro-Max Age Renewal Advanced Serum Versus Neocutis Bio Serum Firm This anti-aging serum is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Acetyl Octapeptide-3 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. This serum is formulated around Aminopropyl Ascor
PCA Skin Pro-Max Age Renewal Advanced Serum Versus Neocutis Bio Serum Firm
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Acetyl Octapeptide-3 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This serum is formulated around Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate to reduce redness and brighten.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Polysilicone-11
Propanediol
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate
Polysorbate 20
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Caprylyl Glycol
Sodium Benzoate
Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
Sodium Hyaluronate
Ethylene Brassylate
Pullulan
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Lactic Acid
Laureth-12
Carnosine
Tricholoma Matsutake Extract
Phenoxyethanol
Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Anigozanthos Flavidus Extract
Porphyridium Cruentum Extract
Pentylene Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Bacillus Ferment
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Acetyl Tripeptide-54 Amide
Acetyl Tripeptide-74 Amide
Palmitoyl Sh-Tripeptide-1 Amide
Palmitoyl Sh-Tripeptide-3 Amide
Ergothioneine
Water, Polysilicone-11, Propanediol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ethylene Brassylate, Pullulan, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Lactic Acid, Laureth-12, Carnosine, Tricholoma Matsutake Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Anigozanthos Flavidus Extract, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Bacillus Ferment, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Acetyl Tripeptide-54 Amide, Acetyl Tripeptide-74 Amide, Palmitoyl Sh-Tripeptide-1 Amide, Palmitoyl Sh-Tripeptide-3 Amide, Ergothioneine
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Squalane
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Cutaneous Lysate
Tetrapeptide-21
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 Acetate
Acetyl Glucosamine
Ethylene/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Polysorbate 60
Proline
Arginine
Glycine
Glutamine
Chlorphenesin
Nannochloropsis Oculata Extract
Capryloyl Carnosine
Poloxamer 338
Silica
Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2
Dextran
Sorbitan Isostearate
Tocopherol
Disodium EDTA
Sodium Hydroxide
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Squalane, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Cutaneous Lysate, Tetrapeptide-21, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 Acetate, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Pullulan, Acetyl Glucosamine, Ethylene/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Polysorbate 60, Proline, Arginine, Glycine, Glutamine, Chlorphenesin, Nannochloropsis Oculata Extract, Capryloyl Carnosine, Poloxamer 338, Silica, Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2, Dextran, Sorbitan Isostearate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Tocopherol, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Pullulan is a low viscosity polysaccharide (a long chain carbohydrate) with binding and film forming properties when dissolved in water. It is used to create a "silicone-like" or silky feel in cosmetics without adding viscosity.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient's ability to easily dissolves makes it a great carrier for active ingredients.
Due to it being edible and tasteless, you'll likely find this ingredient in breath freshener strips. This ingredient is produced from the starch of the fungus, Aureobasidium pullulans.
Pullulan is stable over a broad-range of pH.
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!