Skin science article
Peach & Lily MiniProtein Exosome Bioactive Ampoule Versus The INKEY List Exosome Hydro-Glow Complex Serum
Peach & Lily MiniProtein Exosome Bioactive Ampoule Versus The INKEY List Exosome Hydro-Glow Complex Serum This anti-aging ampoule is formulated around Copper Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier. This hydrating serum is f
Peach & Lily MiniProtein Exosome Bioactive Ampoule Versus The INKEY List Exosome Hydro-Glow Complex Serum
This anti-aging ampoule is formulated around Copper Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
This hydrating serum is formulated around Ectoin and Ubiquinone to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dicaprylyl Ether
Butylene Glycol
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Glycerin
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
1,2-Hexanediol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Glycine Soja Protein
Acetyl Sh-Hexapeptide-5 Amide Acetate
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Linoleic Acid
Linolenic Acid
Swertia Chirata Extract
Glycine
Serine
Glutamic Acid
Leucine
Alanine
Lysine
Arginine
Tyrosine
Hexapeptide-9
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Tripeptide-1
Hexapeptide-11
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Copper Tripeptide-1
Alanine/Histidine/Lysine Polypeptide Copper Hcl
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Tripeptide-32
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract
Sophora Flavescens Root Extract
Cimicifuga Racemosa Root Extract
Phenylalanine
Valine
Proline
Threonine
Aspartic Acid
Isoleucine
Histidine
Methionine
Cysteine
Dextrin Palmitate
Superoxide Dismutase
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Angelica Gigas Root Extract
Adenosine
Morus Alba Bark Extract
Phellinus Linteus Extract
Dioscorea Opposita Root Extract
Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract
Sesamum Indicum Seed Extract
Sodium Dextran Sulfate
Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate
Disteardimonium Hectorite
Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Propylene Carbonate
Cellulose Gum
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Tocopherol
Sodium Phytate
Caprylyl Glycol
Pentylene Glycol
Sodium Benzoate
Maltodextrin
Sodium Chloride
Water, Dicaprylyl Ether, Butylene Glycol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Glycerin, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Glycine Soja Protein, Acetyl Sh-Hexapeptide-5 Amide Acetate, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Swertia Chirata Extract, Glycine, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Leucine, Alanine, Lysine, Arginine, Tyrosine, Hexapeptide-9, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-11, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Alanine/Histidine/Lysine Polypeptide Copper Hcl, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Tripeptide-32, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract, Sophora Flavescens Root Extract, Cimicifuga Racemosa Root Extract, Phenylalanine, Valine, Proline, Threonine, Aspartic Acid, Isoleucine, Histidine, Methionine, Cysteine, Dextrin Palmitate, Superoxide Dismutase, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Angelica Gigas Root Extract, Adenosine, Morus Alba Bark Extract, Phellinus Linteus Extract, Dioscorea Opposita Root Extract, Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract, Sesamum Indicum Seed Extract, Sodium Dextran Sulfate, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Propylene Carbonate, Cellulose Gum, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopherol, Sodium Phytate, Caprylyl Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Maltodextrin, Sodium Chloride
Dipropylene Glycol
Propanediol
Coconut Alkanes
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Dimethicone
Ectoin
Phenoxyethanol
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Allantoin
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Lecithin
Ubiquinone
Hydrolyzed Opuntia Ficus-Indica Flower Extract
Dextran
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Propanediol, Coconut Alkanes, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Dimethicone, Ectoin, Phenoxyethanol, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Allantoin, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Butylene Glycol, Lecithin, Ubiquinone, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Phytate, Pentylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Opuntia Ficus-Indica Flower Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Dextran, Tripeptide-1
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract comes from the leaves of an herb plant native to Southeast Asia. Centella Asiatica is rich in antioxidants and amino acids. It can help reduce irritation and soothe the skin.
Many active components found in centella asiatica, such as Madecassic Acid and Asiaticoside, encourage the skin to naturally produce hyaluronic acid. This helps keep our skin hydrated. Many of these components also show antioxidant activity and may help reduce the signs of aging.
Research shows centella asiatica can help increase Type I collagen production by increasing fibroblast production. Fibroblast helps form connective tissue.
The combination of all these properties makes centella asiatica leaf extract effective at soothing the skin.
Other components of centella asiatica leaf extract include Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and Asiatic Acid.
Recent studies found madecassoside may help prevent damage from UV rays by preventing UV-induced inflammation. Further research is needed.
This plant has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is a lightweight ester created from coconut oil fatty acids, caprylic acid, and capric acid.
It is an emollient that helps soften skin and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). What sets it apart from heavier emollients is its ultralight, non-greasy feel.
Once applied, this ingredient dries down quickly and leaves a dry, silky finish behind. This also helps improve spreadability and texture.
This ingredient has an excellent safety-record and is non-irritating.
Typical concentrations for cosmetics range from 0.5-62%.
Research on Malassezia growth found no growth on fatty acid esters with chain lengths shorter than 12 carbons (it prefers C11-24).
Since Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is built on C8 and C10 fatty acids, it is out of the range that Malassezia metabolizes, and therefore safe for fungal acne.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Sodium Phytate is the synthetic salt form of phytic acid. Phytic acid is an antioxidant and can be found in plant seeds.
Sodium Phytate is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metals from binding to water. This helps stabilize the ingredients and the product.
Tripeptide-1, also known as GHK), is a small, three-amino-acid peptide made up of glycine, histidine, and lysine.
This ingredient is a signal peptide and tell your skin to start producing fresh collagen, elastin, and other key structural proteins. This helps maintain firmness and reduces the look of fine-lines/wrinkles.
GHK is also unique because is also acts as a carrier peptide. It binds to and transports copper ions (forming the complex GHK-Cu). This form has been studied for decades and is known to stimulate wound healing, boost antioxidant defenses, and promote collagen/elastin synthesis.
In-vitro studies show both GHK and GHK-CU increase fibroblast activity that enhances the production of collagen, elastin, fibronectin, and other extracellular matrix components.
Both of these compounds also help balance enzymes that control collagen breakdown.
Human studies (in-vivo) using GHK-Cu creams have reported visible improvements to skin density, elasticity, and wrinkle depth after several weeks of use.
A small clinical study also found topical collagen tripeptide improved wrinkle appearance and skin elasticity in women after four weeks.
While these results are promising, most research is based on GHK-Cu or its derivatives rather than Tripeptide-1 alone (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 is a famous derivative of GHK). However, the consensus still supports GHK as a potent skin-signaling molecule that can encourage regeneration and maintain youthful looking skin.
Fun fact: GHK is a naturally occurring fragment of type 1 collagen that can be found in human plasma, saliva, and urine.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!