Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Peach & Lily MiniProtein Exosome Bioactive Ampoule Versus The INKEY List Exosome Hydro-Glow Complex Serum

Peach & Lily MiniProtein Exosome Bioactive Ampoule Versus The INKEY List Exosome Hydro-Glow Complex Serum This anti-aging ampoule is formulated around Copper Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier. This hydrating serum is f

Peach & Lily MiniProtein Exosome Bioactive Ampoule Versus The INKEY List Exosome Hydro-Glow Complex Serum

This anti-aging ampoule is formulated around Copper Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

This hydrating serum is formulated around Ectoin and Ubiquinone to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dicaprylyl Ether

Butylene Glycol

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Glycerin

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

1,2-Hexanediol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

Glycine Soja Protein

Acetyl Sh-Hexapeptide-5 Amide Acetate

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract

Linoleic Acid

Linolenic Acid

Swertia Chirata Extract

Glycine

Serine

Glutamic Acid

Leucine

Alanine

Lysine

Arginine

Tyrosine

Hexapeptide-9

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Tripeptide-1

Hexapeptide-11

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Copper Tripeptide-1

Alanine/Histidine/Lysine Polypeptide Copper Hcl

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Tripeptide-32

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract

Sophora Flavescens Root Extract

Cimicifuga Racemosa Root Extract

Phenylalanine

Valine

Proline

Threonine

Aspartic Acid

Isoleucine

Histidine

Methionine

Cysteine

Dextrin Palmitate

Superoxide Dismutase

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Angelica Gigas Root Extract

Adenosine

Morus Alba Bark Extract

Phellinus Linteus Extract

Dioscorea Opposita Root Extract

Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract

Sesamum Indicum Seed Extract

Sodium Dextran Sulfate

Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate

Disteardimonium Hectorite

Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate

Polyhydroxystearic Acid

Propylene Carbonate

Cellulose Gum

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Tocopherol

Sodium Phytate

Caprylyl Glycol

Pentylene Glycol

Sodium Benzoate

Maltodextrin

Sodium Chloride

Water, Dicaprylyl Ether, Butylene Glycol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Glycerin, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Glycine Soja Protein, Acetyl Sh-Hexapeptide-5 Amide Acetate, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Swertia Chirata Extract, Glycine, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Leucine, Alanine, Lysine, Arginine, Tyrosine, Hexapeptide-9, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-11, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Alanine/Histidine/Lysine Polypeptide Copper Hcl, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Tripeptide-32, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract, Sophora Flavescens Root Extract, Cimicifuga Racemosa Root Extract, Phenylalanine, Valine, Proline, Threonine, Aspartic Acid, Isoleucine, Histidine, Methionine, Cysteine, Dextrin Palmitate, Superoxide Dismutase, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Angelica Gigas Root Extract, Adenosine, Morus Alba Bark Extract, Phellinus Linteus Extract, Dioscorea Opposita Root Extract, Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract, Sesamum Indicum Seed Extract, Sodium Dextran Sulfate, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Propylene Carbonate, Cellulose Gum, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopherol, Sodium Phytate, Caprylyl Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Maltodextrin, Sodium Chloride

Dipropylene Glycol

Propanediol

Coconut Alkanes

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Dimethicone

Ectoin

Phenoxyethanol

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Allantoin

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Lecithin

Ubiquinone

Hydrolyzed Opuntia Ficus-Indica Flower Extract

Dextran

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Propanediol, Coconut Alkanes, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Dimethicone, Ectoin, Phenoxyethanol, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Allantoin, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Butylene Glycol, Lecithin, Ubiquinone, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Phytate, Pentylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Opuntia Ficus-Indica Flower Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Dextran, Tripeptide-1

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract comes from the leaves of an herb plant native to Southeast Asia. Centella Asiatica is rich in antioxidants and amino acids. It can help reduce irritation and soothe the skin.

Many active components found in centella asiatica, such as Madecassic Acid and Asiaticoside, encourage the skin to naturally produce hyaluronic acid. This helps keep our skin hydrated. Many of these components also show antioxidant activity and may help reduce the signs of aging.

Research shows centella asiatica can help increase Type I collagen production by increasing fibroblast production. Fibroblast helps form connective tissue.

The combination of all these properties makes centella asiatica leaf extract effective at soothing the skin.

Other components of centella asiatica leaf extract include Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and Asiatic Acid.

Recent studies found madecassoside may help prevent damage from UV rays by preventing UV-induced inflammation. Further research is needed.

This plant has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is a lightweight ester created from coconut oil fatty acids, caprylic acid, and capric acid.

It is an emollient that helps soften skin and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). What sets it apart from heavier emollients is its ultralight, non-greasy feel.

Once applied, this ingredient dries down quickly and leaves a dry, silky finish behind. This also helps improve spreadability and texture.

This ingredient has an excellent safety-record and is non-irritating.

Typical concentrations for cosmetics range from 0.5-62%.

Research on Malassezia growth found no growth on fatty acid esters with chain lengths shorter than 12 carbons (it prefers C11-24).

Since Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is built on C8 and C10 fatty acids, it is out of the range that Malassezia metabolizes, and therefore safe for fungal acne.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Sodium Phytate is the synthetic salt form of phytic acid. Phytic acid is an antioxidant and can be found in plant seeds.

Sodium Phytate is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metals from binding to water. This helps stabilize the ingredients and the product.

Tripeptide-1, also known as GHK), is a small, three-amino-acid peptide made up of glycine, histidine, and lysine.

This ingredient is a signal peptide and tell your skin to start producing fresh collagen, elastin, and other key structural proteins. This helps maintain firmness and reduces the look of fine-lines/wrinkles.

GHK is also unique because is also acts as a carrier peptide. It binds to and transports copper ions (forming the complex GHK-Cu). This form has been studied for decades and is known to stimulate wound healing, boost antioxidant defenses, and promote collagen/elastin synthesis.

In-vitro studies show both GHK and GHK-CU increase fibroblast activity that enhances the production of collagen, elastin, fibronectin, and other extracellular matrix components.

Both of these compounds also help balance enzymes that control collagen breakdown.

Human studies (in-vivo) using GHK-Cu creams have reported visible improvements to skin density, elasticity, and wrinkle depth after several weeks of use.

A small clinical study also found topical collagen tripeptide improved wrinkle appearance and skin elasticity in women after four weeks.

While these results are promising, most research is based on GHK-Cu or its derivatives rather than Tripeptide-1 alone (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 is a famous derivative of GHK). However, the consensus still supports GHK as a potent skin-signaling molecule that can encourage regeneration and maintain youthful looking skin.

Fun fact: GHK is a naturally occurring fragment of type 1 collagen that can be found in human plasma, saliva, and urine.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice is the filtered, stabilized liquid pressed from the inner gel of the aloe vera leaf.
  4. 04In cosmetics, it shows up as either soothing active or a water-replacement base. It is roughly 98-99% water and the last 1-2% is an interesting mix of polysaccharides, amino acids, vitamins, minerals, and enzymes.
  5. 05The polysaccharides do most of the work: they bind water at the skin surface for a light, non-greasy hydration boost. And one of the polysaccharides, glycomannan, is linked to fibroblast stimulation + collagen synthesis. This is also why aloe has su…
  6. 06This ingredient is also calming with anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity, making it a great pick for sensitive, irritated, or post-sun skin.
  7. 07Realistic expectations matter though; the solid evidence is mostly limited to hydration, soothing, and wound support. Deeper claims about anti-aging or sun protection are not well backed, and science reviews note it does not prevent radiation-induce…
  8. 08Because it plays well with almost everything, it's commonly used as a base alongside other actives like niacinamide or vitamin C.
  9. 09Typical usage concentrations range from 0.5% (where hydration benefits already show up) all the way to 90%+ (where it replaces water as the main base).
  10. 10The safety for this ingredient is well-establish as well. Overall, this is a great supporting ingredient for those who want a boost in hydration.
  11. 11Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
  12. 12Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
  13. 13Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
  14. 14Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
  15. 15Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
  16. 16However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
  17. 17Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
  18. 18In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
  19. 19While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
  20. 20Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

The Inkey List Kaolin Mask

The Inkey List Kaolin Mask The Inkey List Kaolin Mask ingredients explained: Aqua, Kaolin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Stearic A…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →

Product

The Inkey List Niacinamide

The Inkey List Niacinamide The Inkey List Niacinamide ingredients explained: Water (Aqua/Eau), Niacinamide, Glycerin, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Squalane, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side