Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Peach & Lily Peptide Pro Firming Moisturizer Versus Blume Meltdown Gel Cream for Acne-Prone Skin

Peach & Lily Peptide Pro Firming Moisturizer Versus Blume Meltdown Gel Cream for Acne-Prone Skin This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Collagen Extract and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair moi

Peach & Lily Peptide Pro Firming Moisturizer Versus Blume Meltdown Gel Cream for Acne-Prone Skin

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Collagen Extract and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Sorbitol

Glycerin

Cetearyl Alcohol

Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate

1,2-Hexanediol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Hydrogenated Polydecene

C10-18 Triglycerides

Stearic Acid

Cetearyl Glucoside

Collagen Extract

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Dipeptide-2

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Copper Tripeptide-1

Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Nonapeptide-1

Hexapeptide-9

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Serine

Methionine

Cysteine

Arginine

Tremella Fuciformis Extract

Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

Polyglutamic Acid

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic Acid

Squalane

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Glyceryl Glucoside

Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate

Prunus Mume Fruit Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Panax Ginseng Callus Culture Extract

Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract

Prunus Armeniaca Fruit Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Adenosine

Tocopherol

Sorbitan Stearate

Carbomer

Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Origanum Majorana Leaf Extract

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract

Phellinus Linteus Extract

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Glucose

Ethylhexylglycerin

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract

Pentylene Glycol

Caprylyl Glycol

Tropolone

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Water, Butylene Glycol, Sorbitol, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Polydecene, C10-18 Triglycerides, Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Glucoside, Collagen Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Dipeptide-2, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Copper Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Nonapeptide-1, Hexapeptide-9, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Serine, Methionine, Cysteine, Arginine, Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Polyglutamic Acid, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Squalane, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Glucoside, Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Prunus Mume Fruit Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Panax Ginseng Callus Culture Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Prunus Armeniaca Fruit Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Adenosine, Tocopherol, Sorbitan Stearate, Carbomer, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Origanum Majorana Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Phellinus Linteus Extract, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Glucose, Ethylhexylglycerin, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Tropolone, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Propanediol

Diisostearyl Malate

Diheptyl Succinate

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Niacinamide

Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Behenyl Alcohol

Maltol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Terminalia Chebula Fruit Extract

Sodium Lactate

Centella Asiatica Extract

PCA

Ceramide NP

Ceramide As

Ceramide AP

Ceramide Ns

Cholesterol

Ceramide EOP

Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract

Gossypium Hirsutum Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Sodium PCA

Laminaria Japonica Extract

Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract

Polyquaternium-80

Sorbitan Isostearate

Saccharide Isomerate

Maltodextrin

Citric Acid

Aspartic Acid

Sodium Citrate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Glycine

Alanine

Dipropylene Glycol

Valine

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Glyceryl Stearate

Proline

Threonine

Isoleucine

Sucrose Distearate

Histidine

Phenylalanine

Water, Propanediol, Squalane, Diisostearyl Malate, Diheptyl Succinate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Behenyl Alcohol, Maltol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Terminalia Chebula Fruit Extract, Sodium Lactate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Arginine, PCA, Ceramide NP, Ceramide As, Ceramide AP, Ceramide Ns, Cholesterol, Ceramide EOP, Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Gossypium Hirsutum Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Sodium PCA, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract, Polyquaternium-80, Sorbitan Isostearate, Saccharide Isomerate, Maltodextrin, Citric Acid, Aspartic Acid, Sodium Citrate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glycine, Alanine, Dipropylene Glycol, Serine, Valine, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Glyceryl Stearate, Proline, Threonine, Isoleucine, Sucrose Distearate, Histidine, Phenylalanine

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.

It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.

Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.

A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.

Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.

One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.

Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Serine is a non-essential amino acid (your body makes it on its own!). It is a major player in your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.

Serine is one of your NMF's most abundant components that works as a skin-identical humectant. Its hydroxyl group grabs onto water molecules to boost hydration without any heaviness or occlusion.

Research on a hydrogel with serine confirmed this serine got delivered to your stratum corneum and demonstrated enhanced skin moisturization.

Interestingly serine also helps your skin produce filaggrin, a protein that keeps your skin barrier strong and used to create collagen.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side