Skin science article
Peach Slices Redness Relief Azelaic Acid Serum Versus Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster
Peach Slices Redness Relief Azelaic Acid Serum Versus Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster This calming serum is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Panthenol to calm redness and fade the look of dark spots. This calming treatment is formulated around Azelai
Peach Slices Redness Relief Azelaic Acid Serum Versus Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster
This calming serum is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Panthenol to calm redness and fade the look of dark spots.
This calming treatment is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Salicylic Acid to calm redness and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Azelaic Acid
Butylene Glycol
Dipropylene Glycol
1,2-Hexanediol
Propanediol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Panthenol
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
Spirulina Platensis Extract
Rhodomyrtus Tomentosa Fruit Extract
Artemisia Vulgaris Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Spinacia Oleracea Leaf Extract
Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract
Tapioca Starch
Allantoin
Betaine
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Arginine
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Sorbitan Isostearate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Dextrin
Carthamus Tinctorius Flower Extract
Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Polyacrylate-13
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Caprylyl Glycol
Water, Azelaic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Panthenol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Spirulina Platensis Extract, Rhodomyrtus Tomentosa Fruit Extract, Artemisia Vulgaris Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Spinacia Oleracea Leaf Extract, Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract, Tapioca Starch, Allantoin, Betaine, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Arginine, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Dextrin, Carthamus Tinctorius Flower Extract, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Polyacrylate-13, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Caprylyl Glycol
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
Glycerin
Cetearyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate
Dimethicone
Salicylic Acid
Adenosine
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract
Bisabolol
Cyclopentasiloxane
Xanthan Gum
Sclerotium Gum
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Azelaic Acid, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Dimethicone, Salicylic Acid, Adenosine, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract, Allantoin, Bisabolol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Xanthan Gum, Sclerotium Gum, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Azelaic acid is a multitasker ingredient that helps treat acne, pigmentation, and irritation. It is a great option for sensitive skin.
What makes it special?
OTC Azelaic acid is usually available in concentrations from 10-15% and anything over requires a prescription.
Here's what each tier does best:
Unlike other acids, azelaic acid will not make your skin more photosensitive/sun sensitive.
Though this ingredient is naturally occurring in grains like wheat, rye, and barley, it is usually synthetically created for cosmetics to ensure stability and effectiveness.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!