Perricone MD Cold Plasma Plus+ The Essence Versus MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Volume All In One Essence

Perricone MD Cold Plasma Plus+ The Essence Versus MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Volume All In One Essence

This anti-aging essence is formulated around Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging essence is formulated around Niacinamide and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate

Glycerin

Pentylene Glycol

Niacinamide

Butylene Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Polysorbate 20

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Chlorphenesin

Copper Tripeptide-1

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Phytate

Sodium Citrate

Carbomer

Phenoxyethanol

Citric Acid

Phosphatidylcholine

Linoleic Acid

Potassium Sorbate

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Linolenic Acid

Tocopherol

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Water, Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polysorbate 20, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Chlorphenesin, Copper Tripeptide-1, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Phytate, Sodium Citrate, Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol, Citric Acid, Phosphatidylcholine, Linoleic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Linolenic Acid, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate

Methylpropanediol

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Methyl Perfluoroisobutyl Ether

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Methyl Perfluorobutyl Ether

Cyclopentasiloxane

Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cyclohexasiloxane

Elaeis Guineensis Oil

Decyl Glucoside

Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate

Stearic Acid

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Betaine

Hydroxyethyl Urea

Elaeis Guineensis Kernel Oil

Hydroxyacetophenone

Dimethicone

Arginine

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Propanediol

Juniperus Communis Fruit Extract

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Ethylhexylglycerin

Allantoin

Ammonium Lactate

Urea

Parfum

Adenosine

Sodium Hyaluronate

Laureth-23

Propylene Glycol

Disodium EDTA

Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Taraxacum Officinale Rhizome/Root Extract

Sodium Guaiazulene Sulfonate

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Water

Fructan

Benzyl Glycol

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Desamido Collagen

Hydrolyzed Elastin

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Decylene Glycol

Sodium Polyacrylate

Caprylyl Glycol

Trideceth-6

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate

Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract

Raspberry Ketone

Sorbitan Laurate

Nonoxynol-14

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester

Astaxanthin

Ethyl Hexanediol

Oligopeptide-29

Oligopeptide-32

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide

Water, Methylpropanediol, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Methyl Perfluoroisobutyl Ether, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Methyl Perfluorobutyl Ether, Cyclopentasiloxane, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Decyl Glucoside, Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Betaine, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Elaeis Guineensis Kernel Oil, Hydroxyacetophenone, Dimethicone, Arginine, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Carbomer, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Propanediol, Juniperus Communis Fruit Extract, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Allantoin, Ammonium Lactate, Urea, Parfum, Adenosine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Laureth-23, Propylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Butylene Glycol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Taraxacum Officinale Rhizome/Root Extract, Sodium Guaiazulene Sulfonate, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Water, Fructan, Benzyl Glycol, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Desamido Collagen, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Decylene Glycol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Caprylyl Glycol, Trideceth-6, Pentylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Raspberry Ketone, Hyaluronic Acid, Sorbitan Laurate, Nonoxynol-14, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Astaxanthin, Ethyl Hexanediol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Oligopeptide-29, Oligopeptide-32, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".

It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.

The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.

So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.

A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:

While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).

Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu) is a skin repairing ingredient known for its ability to boost collagen, improve firmness, and support skin regeneration.

It is a complex made up of a naturally occurring peptide (glycine-histidine-lysine) and copper, an essential trace element.

While studying wound healing, researchers noticed GHK-Cu stimulated hair follicle enlargement and growth by keeping hair in its active growth phase longer. This has made it a promising ingredient for hair regrowth treatments.

Some people have reported increased facial hair. While GHK-Cu can make your hair follicles bigger, it usually doesn’t turn soft, barely-visible facial hairs into thick, dark ones.

Anecdotal reports suggest that overusing copper peptides might lead to premature aging due to excess free copper or enzyme imbalances. This claim isn’t backed by large-scale studies.

Unfortunately, there are limited human studies for this ingredient. While early results are promising, many studies are either small, in-vitro, or not rigorously controlled.

For example, there is a 1998 study that explored the effects of copper tripeptide, vitamin C, tretinoin, and melatonin on skin repair and collagen synthesis.

After one month, increased procollagen production was seen in 7 out of 10 participants using copper tripeptide (more than those using vitamin C, melatonin, or tretinoin.

While the study was exploratory, it offers early evidence that copper tripeptide may support collagen production. Larger, well-designed trials are still needed to confirm its potential and understand individual responses.

Read more about other common types of peptides here:

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan (basically a long sugar chain) that your skin already makes on its own. In your skin, HA lives in the extracellular matrix and acts as the body's moisture reservoir.

Topically, HA is a humectant that binds water and helps skin look more plump, smooth, and hydrated.

The only catch is that HA isn't a single thing; it actually comes in a wide range of molecular weights (~50 - 2,000+ kDA) and size matters.

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

This is why the best HA serums blend the two sizes together so you get the best of both worlds.

The majority of cosmetic HA is produced by bacterial fermentation, typically using Streptococcus or Bacillus strains. Typical use levels in skincare sit around 0.1-2%.

A clinical study using a 0.2% low-molecular weight HA gel showed improvement in facial seborrheic dermatitis with excellent tolerance.

These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (formerly Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is a synthetic peptide. Its main job is to fight what researchers call "inflammaging".

"Inflammaging" is the slow, low-grade chronic inflammation that quietly breaks down collagen as we age.

This ingredient calms down a specific inflammation signal in your skin cells (called IL-6). When left unchecked, this signal triggers enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.

Clinical testing showed statistically significant improvements in:

Studies also found the more of this ingredient used, the more your skin produces Collagen I, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

You'll likely see this ingredient paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex for enhanced anti-aging effects.

A 3% concentration applied twice daily for two months showed meaningful skin rejuvenation results in clinical panels.

Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.

That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.

Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.

Human clinical data is promising, but modest:

A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.

A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.

You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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