Pestle & Mortar Pure Hyaluronic Serum Versus Biba de Sousa The Plant Stem Cell Serum with Peptides

Pestle & Mortar Pure Hyaluronic Serum Versus Biba de Sousa The Plant Stem Cell Serum with Peptides

This hydrating serum is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Panthenol to hydrate skin and calm redness.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Sodium Hyaluronate

Butylene Glycol

Panthenol

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder

Caprylyl Glycol

Phenoxyethanol

Citric Acid

Water, Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Butylene Glycol, Panthenol, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Citric Acid

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Leontopodium Alpinum Extract

Ubiquinone

Echinacea Purpurea Leaf/Stem/Meristem Cell Culture Extract

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Tocopherol

Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract

Asparagus Officinalis Stem Extract

Water, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Leontopodium Alpinum Extract, Ubiquinone, Echinacea Purpurea Leaf/Stem/Meristem Cell Culture Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Panthenol, Tocopherol, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Asparagus Officinalis Stem Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Citric Acid

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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