Skin science article
Peter Thomas Roth FIRMx Collagen Serum Versus Biologique Recherche Serum Matriciel Visage
Peter Thomas Roth FIRMx Collagen Serum Versus Biologique Recherche Serum Matriciel Visage This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles. This anti-aging serum is formulated around Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Ext
Peter Thomas Roth FIRMx Collagen Serum Versus Biologique Recherche Serum Matriciel Visage
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract and Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Collagen
Water
Dimethicone
Butylene Glycol
Polysilicone-11
Glycerin
Caffeine
Squalane
Soluble Collagen
Collagen Amino Acids
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydroxyproline
Sodium Citrate
Citric Acid
Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Hydroxystearic Acid
Magnesium Chloride
Polysorbate 20
Polysorbate 80
Sodium Hydroxide
Sorbitan Isostearate
Decyl Glucoside
Lauryl Glucoside
Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Disodium EDTA
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Isohexadecane
Ethylhexylglycerin
Hexylene Glycol
Caprylyl Glycol
Phenoxyethanol
Mica
Collagen, Water, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Polysilicone-11, Glycerin, Caffeine, Squalane, Soluble Collagen, Collagen Amino Acids, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxyproline, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Hydroxystearic Acid, Magnesium Chloride, Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 80, Sodium Hydroxide, Sorbitan Isostearate, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Disodium EDTA, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Isohexadecane, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Mica
Pentylene Glycol
Sodium Polyacrylate
Mannitol
Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract
Hydrolyzed Manihot Esculenta Tuber Extract
Sorbitan Laurate
Secale Cereale Seed Extract
Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract
Alteromonas Ferment Extract
Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract
Rhizobian Gum
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Polygonum Aviculare Extract
Chlorphenesin
Salicylic Acid
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Mannitol, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Hydrolyzed Manihot Esculenta Tuber Extract, Sorbitan Laurate, Phenoxyethanol, Secale Cereale Seed Extract, Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract, Alteromonas Ferment Extract, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract, Rhizobian Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Polygonum Aviculare Extract, Chlorphenesin, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Hydroxide, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This peptide is more commonly known as Thymulen 4 BG.
It is derived from a youth hormone called thymopoietin. Thymopoietin helps regulate the immune system and decreases naturally with age.
According to the manufacturer, this peptide boosts the skin's immune defenses and regenerates the outer layers of skin.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!