Skin science article
Peter Thomas Roth Peptide Skinjection Amplified Wrinkle-Fix Serum Versus PCA Skin Exlinea Pro Peptide Serum
Peter Thomas Roth Peptide Skinjection Amplified Wrinkle-Fix Serum Versus PCA Skin Exlinea Pro Peptide Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Pentapeptide-18 to soften the look of wrinkles. This anti-aging serum is formulated
Peter Thomas Roth Peptide Skinjection Amplified Wrinkle-Fix Serum Versus PCA Skin Exlinea Pro Peptide Serum
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Pentapeptide-18 to soften the look of wrinkles.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Acetyl Octapeptide-3 and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dimethicone
Squalane
Butylene Glycol
Glycerin
Saccharomyces Lysate
Polysilicone-11
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Pentapeptide-18
N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Collagen
Sodium Hyaluronate
Tocopherol
Phytosterols
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Citric Acid
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate
Pentylene Glycol
Caprylyl Glycol
Sodium Benzoate
Sodium Phytate
Sodium Hydroxide
Potassium Sorbate
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Trihydroxystearin
Lauroyl Lysine
Glucomannan
Ethylhexylglycerin
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Carbomer
Glyceryl Stearate
Stearyl Alcohol
Behenyl Alcohol
Mica
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Dimethicone, Squalane, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Saccharomyces Lysate, Polysilicone-11, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Pentapeptide-18, N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Collagen, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Phytosterols, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Citric Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Phytate, Sodium Hydroxide, Potassium Sorbate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Trihydroxystearin, Lauroyl Lysine, Glucomannan, Ethylhexylglycerin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Carbomer, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Mica, Phenoxyethanol
Glyceryl Isostearate
Isostearyl Isostearate
C13-15 Alkane
Betaine
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Xanthan Gum
Methyl Gluceth-20
Oryza Sativa Starch
Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate
Sodium Levulinate
Levulinic Acid
Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Pectin
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Arginine
Proline
Serine
Glucose
Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Chondrus Crispus Extract
Disodium Phosphate
Polysorbate 60
Sodium Phosphate
Water, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Glyceryl Isostearate, Isostearyl Isostearate, C13-15 Alkane, Betaine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Xanthan Gum, Methyl Gluceth-20, Oryza Sativa Starch, Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate, Sodium Levulinate, Caprylyl Glycol, Levulinic Acid, Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Sodium Hydroxide, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Butylene Glycol, Pectin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Arginine, Proline, Serine, Glucose, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Disodium Phosphate, Polysorbate 60, Sodium Phosphate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!