Peter Thomas Roth Potent C Brightening Vitamin C Moisturizer Versus Paula's Choice C5 Super Boost Moisturizer

Peter Thomas Roth Potent C Brightening Vitamin C Moisturizer Versus Paula's Choice C5 Super Boost Moisturizer

This brightening moisturizer is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Tocopheryl Acetate to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.

This brightening moisturizer is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Ascorbyl Glucoside to brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Propanediol

C9-12 Alkane

Glycerin

Tocopheryl Acetate

Behenyl Alcohol

Palmitic Acid

Cetyl Palmitate

Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate

Stearic Acid

Stearyl Alcohol

Oleic Acid

Soy Acid

Ferulic Acid

Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract

Olea Europaea Fruit Extract

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Elastin

Zingiber Officinale Root Extract

Lactic Acid

Ceramide NP

Sodium Hyaluronate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Wheat Amino Acids

Glycine Soja Sterols

Saccharomyces Ferment

Jojoba Esters

Olus Oil

Glyceryl Stearate

Gluconolactone

Calcium Gluconate

Sodium Benzoate

Sodium PCA

Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate

Myristic Acid

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Lactate

Lauroyl Lysine

Arachidic Acid

Lauric Acid

Potassium Sorbate

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan

Histidine Hcl

Carnosine

Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate

Arachidyl Alcohol

Cetyl Alcohol

Lauryl Alcohol

Xanthan Gum

Carbomer

Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax

Ethylhexylglycerin

Disodium EDTA

Mica

Phenoxyethanol

CI 15985

CI 19140

Water, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Propanediol, C9-12 Alkane, Glycerin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Behenyl Alcohol, Palmitic Acid, Cetyl Palmitate, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Stearic Acid, Stearyl Alcohol, Oleic Acid, Soy Acid, Ferulic Acid, Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract, Olea Europaea Fruit Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Elastin, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Lactic Acid, Ceramide NP, Sodium Hyaluronate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Wheat Amino Acids, Glycine Soja Sterols, Saccharomyces Ferment, Jojoba Esters, Olus Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Gluconolactone, Calcium Gluconate, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium PCA, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Myristic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Lactate, Lauroyl Lysine, Arachidic Acid, Lauric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan, Histidine Hcl, Carnosine, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Arachidyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Lauryl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Mica, Phenoxyethanol, CI 15985, CI 19140

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Dimethicone

Butylene Glycol

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Squalane

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Acetyl Sh-Hexapeptide-5 Amide Acetate

Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter

Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Tocopherol

Acetyl Zingerone

Caprylyl Glycol

Sorbitan Olivate

Sorbitan Palmitate

Helianthus Annuus Extract

Hexylene Glycol

Sodium Phytate

Polysorbate 60

Sorbitan Isostearate

Lecithin

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Glycine Soja Oil

Lysolecithin

Bacillus Ferment

Citric Acid

Polyglutamic Acid

Beta-Sitosterol

Phytic Acid

Squalene

Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Squalane, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Acetyl Sh-Hexapeptide-5 Amide Acetate, Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Propanediol, Jojoba Esters, Tocopherol, Acetyl Zingerone, Cetyl Palmitate, Caprylyl Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Sodium Hydroxide, Sorbitan Olivate, Sorbitan Palmitate, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Sodium Phytate, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Lecithin, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Glycine Soja Oil, Lysolecithin, Bacillus Ferment, Citric Acid, Polyglutamic Acid, Beta-Sitosterol, Phytic Acid, Squalene, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.

Its main roles are:

Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.

The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.

Cetyl Palmitate is a wax-ester that pulls triple duty as an emollient, thickener, and emulsion enhancer.

It helps enhance the texture of products by giving a smooth, silky feel while helping to stabilize the formula. The emollient action softens skin and reduces moisture loss.

This ingredient is considered safe and human testing of concentrations between 2.5-2.7% were found minimal irritation. Just know, there have been very rare cases of the palmitate family causing contact dermatitis.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it contains a C16 ester (palmitic acid) that falls into the C11-24 range that Malassezia can feed on.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Jojoba Esters is a wax created from Jojoba oil. It is an emollient and film-forming ingredient. In bead form, it is an exfoliator.

This ingredient has high oxidative stability, meaning it doesn't break down when exposed to oxygen.

Its similarity to our skin's natural oils makes it a great emollient. Emollients help soften and soothe our skin by creating a barrier on top. This barrier helps trap moisture in, keeping skin hydrated.

It is created using either the hydrogenation or transesterification processes on jojoba oil.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

This ingredient is a modified version of natural beeswax where the free fatty acids have been swapped for polyglycerol esters to make it more hydrophilic (water-loving).

It mainly works as an emulsifier to help oil and water stay mixed in a formula. You'll also see it in stick formulas because it also thickens and stabilizes oils to prevent the oils from bleeding.

Emulsifiers like this tend to be well tolerated unless you have a known bee-product allergy. Due to this ingredient being an ester of beeswax fatty acids, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate isn't fungal acne safe.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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