Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Peter Thomas Roth Retinol Fusion PM Night Serum Versus Peter Thomas Roth PRO Strength Retinoid Peptide Serum

Peter Thomas Roth Retinol Fusion PM Night Serum Versus Peter Thomas Roth PRO Strength Retinoid Peptide Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Squalane and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This anti-aging serum is formul

Peter Thomas Roth Retinol Fusion PM Night Serum Versus Peter Thomas Roth PRO Strength Retinoid Peptide Serum

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Squalane and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate and Ceramide NP to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Cyclopentasiloxane

Squalane

Water

Retinol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Bisabolol

Lecithin

Potassium Phosphate

Pentylene Glycol

Polysorbate 20

Alcohol

Cyclopentasiloxane, Squalane, Water, Retinol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Bisabolol, Lecithin, Potassium Phosphate, Pentylene Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Alcohol

C9-12 Alkane

Dimethicone

Isononyl Isononanoate

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Trisiloxane

Polysilicone-11

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14

Ceramide NP

Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract

Hordeum Vulgare Extract

Cucumis Sativus Extract

Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract

Zingiber Officinale Root Extract

Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium PCA

Tocopherol

Linoleic Acid

Oleic Acid

Palmitic Acid

Stearic Acid

Hydroxystearic Acid

Triolein

Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate

Ethoxydiglycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mica

Phenoxyethanol

C9-12 Alkane, Dimethicone, Isononyl Isononanoate, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Trisiloxane, Cyclopentasiloxane, Polysilicone-11, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14, Ceramide NP, Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Cucumis Sativus Extract, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium PCA, Squalane, Tocopherol, Lecithin, Linoleic Acid, Oleic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Hydroxystearic Acid, Triolein, Bisabolol, Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate, Ethoxydiglycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Water, Mica, Phenoxyethanol

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Bisabolol is a gentle skin conditioner, antioxidant, and soothing ingredient.

It's primary claim to fame is soothing and research shows topically applied bisabolol can quiet the chemical messengers that cause your skin to become inflamed, helping to sooth any irritation.

A clinical study found that applying 0.5% bisabolol daily for 8 weeks produced an average 9% decrease in skin pigmentation. Researchers found it can also suppress the process that leads to excess melanin production in skin.

In vitro studies found that bisabolol combined with propylene glycol significantly increased skin permeability by increasing lipid fluidity in the stratum corneum.

You'll likely see use concentrations quite low, usually 0.1-0.2%.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated ingredient that works well in formulas designed for sensitive, reactive, or post-procedure skin.

Cyclopentasiloxane (D5) is a lightweight silicone that mostly acts as an emollient and solvent in cosmetics. Its the reason your products feel silky, fast-spreading, and non-greasy.

Since D5 is volatile, it does its thing and then evaporates off the skin quickly.

The safety profile of this ingredient is reassuring; the US CIR Expert Panel concluded D5 is safe as used in cosmetics and Health Canada concluded that D5 is not harmful to human health or the environment as currently used in cosmetics

There's a study that people mention about D5 in a rat study showing tumors. This study is related to long-term inhalation of high D5 levels.

Regulatory bodies have judged this study to be not applicable in topical skincare since skin absorption of D5 is very low and we're not really inhaling huge amounts of D5.

The only restriction for this ingredient is environmental. The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) restricted D5 in wash-off cosmetics at or above 0.1% due to their persistence in water.

Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.

Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:

It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Product index

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Comparison edit

Read side by side