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Peter Thomas Roth Ultimate Solution 5 Multitasking Moisturizer Versus Lancôme Rénergie H.P.N. 300-Peptide Cream

Peter Thomas Roth Ultimate Solution 5 Multitasking Moisturizer Versus Lancôme Rénergie H.P.N. 300-Peptide Cream This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This

Peter Thomas Roth Ultimate Solution 5 Multitasking Moisturizer Versus Lancôme Rénergie H.P.N. 300-Peptide Cream

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Glyceryl Stearate

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Glycolic Acid

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Isocetyl Stearate

Cetyl Alcohol

Propylene Glycol Stearate

Dimethicone

Sodium Hydroxide

Butylene Glycol

Panthenol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Methyldihydrojasmonate

Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14

Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Maleic Acid

Lactic Acid

Tartaric Acid

Salicylic Acid

Bisabolol

Persea Gratissima Oil

Foeniculum Vulgare Seed Extract

Ceramide NP

Collagen

Jojoba Esters

Ascorbic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate

Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax

Sodium Phytate

Cholesterol

Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract

Echinacea Angustifolia Extract

Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax

Polyglycerin-3

Carbomer

Sodium Lactate

Stearic Acid

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer

Sorbitan Isostearate

Potassium Sorbate

Polysorbate 20

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Methylpropanediol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Polyvinyl Alcohol

Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate

Isohexadecane

Polysilicone-11

Histidine Hcl

Stearyl Alcohol

Stearoxytrimethylsilane

Xanthan Gum

Viola Tricolor Extract

Sodium Benzoate

Polysorbate 60

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glyceryl Stearate, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Glycolic Acid, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Isocetyl Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Propylene Glycol Stearate, Dimethicone, Sodium Hydroxide, Butylene Glycol, Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Methyldihydrojasmonate, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Maleic Acid, Lactic Acid, Tartaric Acid, Salicylic Acid, Bisabolol, Persea Gratissima Oil, Foeniculum Vulgare Seed Extract, Ceramide NP, Collagen, Jojoba Esters, Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Sodium Phytate, Cholesterol, Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract, Echinacea Angustifolia Extract, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax, Polyglycerin-3, Carbomer, Sodium Lactate, Stearic Acid, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Sorbitan Isostearate, Potassium Sorbate, Polysorbate 20, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Methylpropanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate, Isohexadecane, Polysilicone-11, Histidine Hcl, Stearyl Alcohol, Stearoxytrimethylsilane, Xanthan Gum, Viola Tricolor Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Polysorbate 60, Phenoxyethanol

Cetearyl Alcohol

Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter

Alcohol Denat.

Cetearyl Isononanoate

Niacinamide

PEG-100 Stearate

Isopropyl Palmitate

Octyldodecanol

Cyclodextrin

Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein

Pisum Sativum Extract

Adenosine

Capryloyl Salicylic Acid

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Cera Alba

Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil

Simmondsia Chinensis Butter

Cetearyl Glucoside

Citric Acid

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Tocopherol

Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer

Benzyl Alcohol

Geraniol

Limonene

Chlorphenesin

Dipropylene Glycol

Parfum

Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Alcohol Denat., Cetearyl Isononanoate, Niacinamide, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Octyldodecanol, Cyclodextrin, Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein, Pisum Sativum Extract, Adenosine, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Cera Alba, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Butter, Cetearyl Glucoside, Citric Acid, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polysorbate 60, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Tocopherol, Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer, Benzyl Alcohol, Geraniol, Limonene, Chlorphenesin, Dipropylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Parfum

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

This is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.

It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Polysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.

Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.

In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.

Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.

As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.

In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.

Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Glycerin
  3. 03Dimethicone
  4. 04Cetearyl Alcohol
  5. 05Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter
  6. 06Alcohol Denat.
  7. 07Cetearyl Isononanoate
  8. 08Niacinamide
  9. 09Glyceryl Stearate
  10. 10PEG-100 Stearate
  11. 11Isopropyl Palmitate
  12. 12Octyldodecanol
  13. 13Cyclodextrin
  14. 14Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein
  15. 15Pisum Sativum Extract
  16. 16Adenosine
  17. 17Capryloyl Salicylic Acid
  18. 18Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
  19. 19Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract
  20. 20Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side