Skin science article
Petitfee Beautifying Mood On Cleanser Versus Beauty of Joseon Radiance Cleansing Balm
Petitfee Beautifying Mood On Cleanser Versus Beauty of Joseon Radiance Cleansing Balm This oil-based makeup remover is made to dissolve makeup, sunscreen, and daily buildup. What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side-by-side Cetyl Ethylhe
Petitfee Beautifying Mood On Cleanser Versus Beauty of Joseon Radiance Cleansing Balm
This oil-based makeup remover is made to dissolve makeup, sunscreen, and daily buildup.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate
PEG-10 Isostearate
Synthetic Wax
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Camellia Japonica Seed Oil
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
Citrus Nobilis Oil
Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Propolis Extract
Glycerin
Sorbitan Sesquioleate
1,2-Hexanediol
Phenoxyethanol
Citral
Limonene
Linalool
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, PEG-10 Isostearate, Synthetic Wax, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Citrus Nobilis Oil, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Propolis Extract, Glycerin, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Citral, Limonene, Linalool
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Oryza Sativa Bran Oil
Water
Oryza Sativa Seed Water
Propanediol
Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Butylene Glycol
Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed Extract
Oryza Sativa Extract
Avena Sativa Meal Extract
Ethylhexylglycerin
Caprylyl Glycol
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, Synthetic Wax, PEG-10 Isostearate, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Water, Oryza Sativa Seed Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Butylene Glycol, Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Avena Sativa Meal Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is an emollient ester. It comes from cetearyl alcohol and 2-ethylhexanoic acid.
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is an emollient that adds a velvety feel to skin without being greasy or oily. Emollients help trap moisture into your skin, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil also known as seabuckthorn oil. This oil is usually extracted from the fruit pulp or seeds.
Seabuckthorn is rich in phytosterols, carotenoids, Vitamins A, C, and E. This gives it strong antioxidant properties that can help soothe and protect your skin from oxidative damage.
This oil is rich in fatty acids, including: two types of linoleic acid (~30-34%), oleic acid (17%), and palmiteic acid (35%). Note these numbers are averages, and different parts of the plant will vary.
Palmitoleic acid has been shown to help soothe inflammation and promote wound healing. It is also naturally found in the fat of our skin.
Overall, seabuckthorn oil is great for nourishing, hydrating, and soothing skin. While it shows UV protecting properties, it should not replace sunscreen.
Due to the rich fatty acid content, this ingredient may not be Malassezia folliculitis, or fungal acne, safe.
Seabuckthorn berries are little orange fruits. This plant is native to Asia.
PEG-10 Isostearate isn't fungal acne safe.
PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate is a synthetic, oil-loving helper ingredient that does two jobs:
This ingredient is made by joining three building blocks: PEG, Isostearic Acid and glycerin. The PEG gives it the oil-and-water blending power.
This ingredient has been found safe for use in cosmetics and broader PEG family testing shows minimal irritation/sensitization. The molecule's large size also means it isn't expected to penetrate skin to any meaningful degree.
Fungal acne note: This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe due to isostearic acid (C18). Isostearic acid falls into the C11-24 range that Malassezia can feed on.
Sorbitan Sesquioleate is derived from sorbitol and oleic acid. It is an emulsifier and prevents ingredients from separating.
Specifically, this ingredient is a water-in-oil emulsifier, meaning it helps water dissolve into oil.
Some studies suggest this ingredient may cause irritation in some people. If you are unsure, it is best to patch test.
This ingredient may not be Malassezia folliculitis, or fungal-acne safe due to the oleic acid. In vitro studies have shown that Oleic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.
Synthetic Wax is a manufactured hydrocarbon wax. In formulas, it works as an occlusive emollient that helps reduce water loss and improves the spreadability of products.
Research comparing synthetic wax to traditional mineral-derived products found that formulas containing it perform as well for skin hydration.
It is considered non-comedogenic and vegan-friendly.
This ingredient has a well-established safety record by the CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety.
Synthetic Waxes are straight/branched-chain hydrocarbons with no ester bond or fatty acids. That means there is nothing for the Malassezia yeast to feed on.