Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Pixi Beauty Milky Tonic Soothing Toner Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Wild Oat Hydrating Toner

Pixi Beauty Milky Tonic Soothing Toner Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Wild Oat Hydrating Toner This calming toner is formulated around Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil and Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract to calm redness and hydrate skin. This hydrating t

Pixi Beauty Milky Tonic Soothing Toner Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Wild Oat Hydrating Toner

This calming toner is formulated around Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil and Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract to calm redness and hydrate skin.

This hydrating toner is formulated around Squalane and Colloidal Oatmeal to hydrate skin and calm redness.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Water

Propanediol

Glycerin

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Sodium PCA

Avena Strigosa Seed Extract

Hydrolyzed Barley Protein

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Euterpe Oleracea Sterols

Linoleic Acid

Oleic Acid

Linolenic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract

Citrus Nobilis Fruit Extract

Rosa Damascena Flower Extract

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract

Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract

Citrus Limon Peel Extract

Eugenia Caryophyllus Flower Extract

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Phospholipids

Lecithin

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Phenoxyethanol

Potassium Sorbate

Disodium EDTA

Citric Acid

Sodium Benzoate

Benzyl Alcohol

Sodium Citrate

Xanthan Gum

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium PCA, Avena Strigosa Seed Extract, Hydrolyzed Barley Protein, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Euterpe Oleracea Sterols, Linoleic Acid, Oleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract, Citrus Nobilis Fruit Extract, Rosa Damascena Flower Extract, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Peel Extract, Eugenia Caryophyllus Flower Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Phospholipids, Lecithin, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Citrate, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin

Glycereth-26

Squalane

Sorbitan Oleate

Ethylhexyl Salicylate

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Colloidal Oatmeal

Mel

Saccharomyces/Honey Ferment Filtrate

Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract

Sodium Hydroxide

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Beta-Glucan

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Propolis Extract

Tetrasodium EDTA

Chlorphenesin

Benzoic Acid

Sorbic Acid

Water, Glycerin, Glycereth-26, Squalane, Sorbitan Oleate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Colloidal Oatmeal, Mel, Saccharomyces/Honey Ferment Filtrate, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Potassium Sorbate, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid, Beta-Glucan, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Propolis Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tetrasodium EDTA, Chlorphenesin, Benzoic Acid, Sorbic Acid

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.

Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.

Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.

In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.

There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.

Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.

A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.

The quality of the extract matters a lot here:

Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.

Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
  4. 04Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
  5. 05Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
  6. 06Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
  7. 07What it does:
  8. 08Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
  9. 09Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
  10. 10Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
  11. 11This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
  12. 12Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
  13. 13Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
  14. 14It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
  15. 15On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
  16. 16Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
  17. 17You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
  18. 18Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
  19. 19Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
  20. 20Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side