Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Proactiv Green Tea Moisturizer Versus Paula's Choice Skin Recovery Replenishing Moisturizer

Proactiv Green Tea Moisturizer Versus Paula's Choice Skin Recovery Replenishing Moisturizer This calming moisturizer is formulated around Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract and Epigallocatechin Gallate to calm redness and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair moisturi

Proactiv Green Tea Moisturizer Versus Paula's Choice Skin Recovery Replenishing Moisturizer

This calming moisturizer is formulated around Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract and Epigallocatechin Gallate to calm redness and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Oenothera Biennis Oil and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

Dimethicone

Sodium Polyacrylate

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Iris Florentina Root Extract

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Epigallocatechin Gallate

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Trideceth-6

Sodium Hyaluronate

Squalane

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

PPG-2 Myristyl Ether Propionate

Alcohol

Allantoin

Propanediol

C12-15 Alkyl Lactate

Polyquaternium-11

Disodium EDTA

Ethylparaben

Methylparaben

Propylparaben

Phenoxyethanol

Parfum

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Sodium Polyacrylate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Iris Florentina Root Extract, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Trideceth-6, Sodium Hyaluronate, Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, PPG-2 Myristyl Ether Propionate, Alcohol, Allantoin, Propanediol, C12-15 Alkyl Lactate, Polyquaternium-11, Disodium EDTA, Ethylparaben, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum

Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate

Glycereth-26

Oenothera Biennis Oil

Cetyl Alcohol

Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate

Cyclopentasiloxane

Stearic Acid

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Cyclohexasiloxane

Panthenol

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Tocopheryl Linoleate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Tocopherol

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Sodium PCA

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Linoleic Acid

Linolenic Acid

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Saccharide Isomerate

Hydroxypropyl Guar

Rosa Moschata Seed Oil

Polysorbate 20

Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose

Carbomer

Sodium Citrate

Trisodium EDTA

Batyl Alcohol

Sodium Hydroxide

Chlorphenesin

Benzoic Acid

Sorbic Acid

Water, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Butylene Glycol, Glycereth-26, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Cetyl Alcohol, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Glycerin, Cyclohexasiloxane, Dimethicone, Panthenol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Linoleate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Sodium PCA, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Saccharide Isomerate, Hydroxypropyl Guar, Allantoin, Rosa Moschata Seed Oil, Polysorbate 20, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Carbomer, Sodium Citrate, Trisodium EDTA, Batyl Alcohol, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Benzoic Acid, Sorbic Acid

Reviews

Be the first to review

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.

Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.

Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.

It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.

Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.

This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.

Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.

Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Bisabolol is a gentle skin conditioner, antioxidant, and soothing ingredient.
  4. 04It's primary claim to fame is soothing and research shows topically applied bisabolol can quiet the chemical messengers that cause your skin to become inflamed, helping to sooth any irritation.
  5. 05A clinical study found that applying 0.5% bisabolol daily for 8 weeks produced an average 9% decrease in skin pigmentation. Researchers found it can also suppress the process that leads to excess melanin production in skin.
  6. 06In vitro studies found that bisabolol combined with propylene glycol significantly increased skin permeability by increasing lipid fluidity in the stratum corneum.
  7. 07You'll likely see use concentrations quite low, usually 0.1-0.2%.
  8. 08Overall, this is a well-tolerated ingredient that works well in formulas designed for sensitive, reactive, or post-procedure skin.
  9. 09Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
  10. 10This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
  11. 11On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
  12. 12One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too st…
  13. 13Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
  14. 14You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
  15. 15Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
  16. 16The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure …
  17. 17Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
  18. 18Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  19. 19Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  20. 20Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side