Skin science article
Project Lip Plump Fix Face Serum Versus My iN.gredients Collagen + Multi Peptide Serum
Project Lip Plump Fix Face Serum Versus My iN.gredients Collagen + Multi Peptide Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Tremella Fuciformis Extract and Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. This anti-
Project Lip Plump Fix Face Serum Versus My iN.gredients Collagen + Multi Peptide Serum
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Tremella Fuciformis Extract and Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Butylene Glycol
Glycerin
Propanediol
Phenyl Trimethicone
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
1,2-Hexanediol
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Tocopheryl Acetate
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Ethylhexylglycerin
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Tromethamine
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Sodium Hyaluronate
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Tremella Fuciformis Extract
Carbomer
Ethyl Hexanediol
Polysorbate 20
Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Tocopherol
Disodium EDTA
Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Propanediol, Phenyl Trimethicone, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Carbomer, Ethyl Hexanediol, Polysorbate 20, Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Tocopherol, Disodium EDTA
Phenoxyethanol
PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Caprylyl Glycol
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Coptis Japonica Root Extract
Sorbitan Isostearate
Vegetable Amino Acids
Illicium Verum Fruit Extract
Proline
Hydroxyproline
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Copper Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Magnesium Chloride
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate
Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine
Oligopeptide-1
Hexapeptide-9
Tripeptide-29
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phenoxyethanol, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Carbomer, Tromethamine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Propanediol, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Sorbitan Isostearate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Vegetable Amino Acids, Illicium Verum Fruit Extract, Proline, Hydroxyproline, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Magnesium Chloride, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine, Oligopeptide-1, Hexapeptide-9, Tripeptide-29
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.
That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.
Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.
Human clinical data is promising, but modest:
A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.
A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.
You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.
Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Tromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.
It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.
This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.
Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!