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PSA SKIN Goals Multi Acids & Probiotics Perfecting Night Serum Versus Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide

PSA SKIN Goals Multi Acids & Probiotics Perfecting Night Serum Versus Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide This smoothing serum is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Gluconolactone to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin. This acn

PSA SKIN Goals Multi Acids & Probiotics Perfecting Night Serum Versus Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide

This smoothing serum is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Gluconolactone to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.

This acne serum is formulated around Propolis Extract and Niacinamide to clear breakouts and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Glycolic Acid

Gluconolactone

Propanediol

Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil

Sodium Hydroxide

Tocopheryl Acetate

Pyruvic Acid

Lactobacillus Ferment

Bisabolol

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Rosa Canina Seed Oil

Lactic Acid

Salicylic Acid

Niacinamide

Sodium PCA

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract

Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer-3

Pentapeptide-59

Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane

Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane

Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Sclerotium Gum

Maltodextrin

Sodium Gluconate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Dimethyl Sulfone

Ethylhexylglycerin

Potassium Sorbate

Phenethyl Alcohol

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Glycerin, Glycolic Acid, Gluconolactone, Propanediol, Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Tocopheryl Acetate, Pyruvic Acid, Lactobacillus Ferment, Bisabolol, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Rosa Canina Seed Oil, Lactic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Niacinamide, Sodium PCA, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer-3, Pentapeptide-59, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Sclerotium Gum, Maltodextrin, Sodium Gluconate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Dimethyl Sulfone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Phenethyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol

Propolis Extract

Dipropylene Glycol

Butylene Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Lotus Corniculatus Seed Extract

Betaine Salicylate

Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Tromethamine

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Caprylyl Glycol

Dextrin

Pentylene Glycol

Octanediol

Tocopherol

Xanthan Gum

Carbomer

Propolis Extract, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Water, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Lotus Corniculatus Seed Extract, Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil, Betaine Salicylate, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Tromethamine, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dextrin, Pentylene Glycol, Octanediol, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil comes from the Tamanu tree. This tree grows in tropical regions of Asia and Polynesian countries such as Fiji.

Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil contains many fatty acids such as linoleic, oleic, stearic, and palmitic acid. These properties help your skin stay hydrated.

As an antioxidant, Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil may also slow down the signs of aging. Antioxidants help fight unstable free-radical molecules.

These molecules may damage your skin cells and speed up aging. By helping to stabilize these molecules, antioxidants may help slow the signs of aging.

A study from 2015 found Tamanu oil to have antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties.

Another study from 2009 found Tamanu Oil to help absorb UV rays. However, this should not replace your sunscreen.

Due to the fatty acid content, this ingredient may not be fungal-acne safe.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is a lightweight ester created from coconut oil fatty acids, caprylic acid, and capric acid.
  4. 04It is an emollient that helps soften skin and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). What sets it apart from heavier emollients is its ultralight, non-greasy feel.
  5. 05Once applied, this ingredient dries down quickly and leaves a dry, silky finish behind. This also helps improve spreadability and texture.
  6. 06This ingredient has an excellent safety-record and is non-irritating.
  7. 07Typical concentrations for cosmetics range from 0.5-62%.
  8. 08Research on Malassezia growth found no growth on fatty acid esters with chain lengths shorter than 12 carbons (it prefers C11-24).
  9. 09Since Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is built on C8 and C10 fatty acids, it is out of the range that Malassezia metabolizes, and therefore safe for fungal acne.
  10. 10Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
  11. 11The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure …
  12. 12Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
  13. 13Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  14. 14Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  15. 15Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  16. 16Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  17. 17This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  18. 18Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  19. 19Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
  20. 20Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
Source · skinsort.com
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Comparison edit

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